Oooh look at the ocean, hard not to, its epic! Lol.
That morning Wiji pointed out the warning poster that I hadn't noticed in our campsite. 'Perro Peligroso' means dangerous dog! They are taking no responsibility for them...Nice!
We were rather concerned therfore when we were followed by the campsite dogs Woody, the ferocious bully and subservient Negro...who chose us for a walk...we were definitely not so sure it was a good idea!
We headed of along the coast before cutting into the little fishing port Hanga Piko...
Tuna is fished in these boats, they do seem so tiny when you look at the ocean and the size of the tuna...lol.
Both Woody and Negro immediately got in the water...it was hilarious, it was funnier when silly Negro stayed in smiling at us! But not so funny when inevitably he ran at us and covered us in wet dog, mud and water...yeah, saw that coming a mile off! Fortunately Woody then disappeared...yay! Negro seemed sooo pleased!
We continued passed Hanga Piko and the standing Moai.
And on to the cave called Ana Kai Tangata. Here we were joined by two tiny puppies that followed us down the precarious steps on the cliff edge...ideal. Who did they belong to?
A great view of the crashing waves.
Cave paintings.
The cave was quite large and had a shale like quality about the rock that was hanging off in places. It all looked a bit dodgy. The water was seeping through the cave and washing off some of the other cave paintings that we couldn't really make out...later we read that you were no longer supposed to enter the cave, oh well, a sign at the time would have been useful!
Looking back down the steps to the cave.
Walking along the coast path...
A big drop and then, bye, bye!
Our third point of interest, the Manavai exhibition garden containing crops planted in the Rapa Nui volcanic walled gardens (manavai), creating a wind free micro-climate...clever huh?
Taro, a staple in oceanic cultures. The corms (swollen stems) are boiled and the leaves are edible green veg.
We looked around the walled areas containing native plants to Rapa Nui.
Then made our way up the well beaten track that was a large hill through some eucalyptus trees.
Looking back at Rapa Nui from the path.
Stopping for a drink. It doesn't look very sunny here, but we could feel the burn! Wiji found the curved end of a palm leaf to give Negro a drink of water in. He seemed to like to scratch at the earth before sitting in it...making him even more dirty!
We continued up the windy hill to the top of the path without seeing a soul..ideal.
Our first view from the top of the volcano Rano Kau and its crater lake. We were speechless. The lake down the bottom is 1km across and 280m deep!
A nice couple took our piccy.
The petroglyph of the Birdman.
It was amazing. We picked a spot to have our sarnies and just stared out...
Negro, had some too.
Looking particularly handsome here, Negro then spotted the guy from Barcelona who was staying at our campsite and then legged it off with him...we were quite relieved to not have the responsibility!
We followed the road around from the crater to the Orongo Ceremonial village. I wasn't sure I could walk on the path right on the edge of it!
Since 1935 much of Rapa Nui's land and archaeoloical sites have been designated a national park.
Once inside the Orongo Ceremonial Village we looked down over the sheer drop of about 400m to the islets of Motu Nui and Motu Iti, both bird sanctuaries and home to four species of marine birds.
A reconstruction and cross-section of a traditional Rapa Nui home.
A village of curved slab construction and low doorways.
From the other side of the crater, having a great day.
Looking down at all the Birdman petroglyphs on the edge of the cliff. Mmm quite windy.
Motu Nui in the back ground and Motu Iti in front with the cone shaped islet of Motu Kao-Kao, also a designated sanctury.
The knife edge of the crater that is eroding away with the weather. In times passed this whole circumference of the crater could be walked, but not now!
The collection of petroglyphs connected to the ceremonial meaning of the site, the cult of the Birdman. Make-make, the Birdman's supreme deity, is credited with bringing the birds to Rapa Nui. The Cult involved a yearly ceremony where a competition was held to obtain the first egg of the Sooty Tern which bred on the islets of Motu Nui, Motu Iti and Motu Kao-Kao.
Each competitor would descend the cliff from Orongo and then with the aid of a small raft made of woven reeds, swim out to the islets. The man who returned first with an egg became Birdman for the ensuing year. The winner had his hair, eyelashes, eyebrows shaved and was painted, recieving great staus within the community. He was then sent to live in a house alone with only the company of a priest. This didn't seem like much of a prize!
Acording to the museum the cult last took place in 1866 or 1867. The Birdman and Make-make symbols are all over the island.
Woooh...sooo close to the edge.
Don't step backwards!
Looking at the eroded petroglyphs and specifically Motu Kao-Kao islet that is cone shaped.
Incredible.
Wiji reading about Orongo.
Some good advice, unless you are a bird!
We decided to walk back along the crater edge rather than the road...I felt I could do it!
There weren't many signs, but this one was was quite clear!
Inside the crater the floating totora reeds make for an intrigung landscape of islets.
After our walk around the Orongo Ceremonial village we made our way back down the path.
And back into Rapa Nui, where we saw the signs outside the parliament building calling for independance from Chile.
We went down to the harbour to check out the dive centres after looking at Motu Nui and Motu Iti, where boat trips took divers out...sadly it was far too rough to even get out the harbour, oh well we were hopeful for another day...
At the harbour, Caleta Hanga Roa, a mix of catholic and Rapa Nui images.
We got some supplies and headed back off aound the coast for a sunset walk home...you can just about make out our tiny tent.
Back at the ranch we were greated warmly by the Chileans who we also staying there, and with some alcohol and the help of Juan on the right who spoke English courtesy of HBO, we got to know each other....Brilliant! We had been waiting for the opportunity to arise!
Francisco and Juan, who both work for LAN. Cheers guys!
Me and Tania shared the same sense of humour. Even though we hadn't spoken before she had seen me doing some silly stuff at the campsite and we had laughed about it. We got Juan to constantly translate for us so we could have a chat. Tania was a superstar! She was also a primary school teacher! Her husband Angelo was great fun also, offering Wiji drinks galore.
The Chileans had set up a massive banquet for their last night and wanted us to totally get involved...it didn't take much! Tania had me started on the Pina Colada, while she tried our Pomelo liqueur from Mendoza...OooooooH!
Juan and his cousin Daniella.
Wastage happened pretty quickly, Francisco AKA 'Party Boy' organises the drink for LAN flights! Ideal.
We had a boogy with our speakers and Capel's tunes...Rum in full effect.
Francisco wanted to Salsa, but pretty soon we were both giving it our best shot, with him shouting 'dance, dance, dance!' LOL.
And that was our introduction to the Chileans. The campsite switched its lights off at 11pm to the sound of our 'boo-hiss-boo's' then we got the head torches out...and partied the night away!
1 comment:
What a day! Was the crater manky or is that just from a distance? could you stand on the islets? It all looks strangely cornish from here but with a bit more art and a lot more ocean. What's the temperature in the sea? lucky buggers getting some k9 loving too. big love. jep. x
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