Wednesday 13 August 2008

Puerto Iguazu and Falls (Argentine Side)

Oh hi! We took the best bus that we have had so far on all our journey's (called Via Bariloche, although it wasn't.) Totally cama, we sat in the top front seats and enjoyed a meal that was made of actual food rather than just chocolate...we even had a salad, imagine! We had wine with our meal and much later after the non-violent (makes a nice change) films, we were offered a glass of champagne...oh yes, we had one, as a nightcap, then popped off to sleep.

We had booked ahead with accom, but this was a bit of an overpriced mistake and we soon found the family run and lovely Residencial Colonial Iguazu. Where they were continually amazed that we wanted to leave at 7am to get to the falls. Fortunately they were a lovely chilled family, who were happy to let us get on our way. We snapped the hotel as we left on the bus, they were really lovely hosts.


On the day of our arrival, we decided to chill and look at the town, after the 20 hour bus journey. It was a day of beautiful sunshine...we didn't see the sun like this again, sadly. But that's the way it goes sometimes. We did gawp in horror at this car driving around, chugging out huge clouds of black fumes that had obscured the number plate! Cheers for parking right next to where we were eating...in a typical South American manner, the motor stayed running!


Looking down the town of Puerto Iguazu on another day of rain, but it was still warm. The streets took on the reddish tinge from the earth. This also coloured the stray dogs and cats too, giving them a pinky tinge, ha ha.


Sometimes on these kind of trips we are quite terrible because we, like everyone else, just want to enjoy it without the hassle of 'tourists' LOL! We got up nice an early, early enough for our hotel owners not to be up, but had to get up to let us out! We managed to organise in advance some lunch, and even got some media-luna's and coffee on the way to the bus terminal to catch the 7am bus to the falls. Apart from one other person, we were the only ones at the terminal. Lol. We ate our brekkie with excitement and anxiety mulling over weather we had actually charged either of the camera batteries...oh dear.

We need not have worried, we were the only visitors for some time, arriving at the Parque National Iguazu entrance with some of the actual workers! Lol...but by the time they did open we had a tour group behind us in the ticket queue. We made a hasty run for it down the green path to the falls.

We really did have most of the park to ourselves and the sun was out!


After the walk though the forest we came across some of the falls and saw the misty spray.


Metal mesh walkways everywhere! If I had tried to do this day out at the start of the trip I would never have made it...far too high up and with a see-through floor! But I was fine! Even looking over the falls...well they did start off smallish. Lol.


The mist from the falls in the distance and lots of huge black vultures flying about and perching in barren trees drying their wings. Quite odd.


Our first glimps of the falls proper in the distance!


700 years ago the Guarani peoples travelled from the Amazon via the rivers to the Misiones rainforest (that Iguazu is part of), in search of the land without evil. In 1608 the Jesuits arrived to evangelize the Guarani. Today the Guarani still practice their traditional crafts.

Iguazu is now part of the 'Three Nations Green Corridor' with Brazil and Paraguay, supposedly protecting the rainforest from further destruction.


Don't do it!!! I think Wiji is really imagining the falls as pure 'Dulce de Leche'...Argentinas toffee/caramel product that is on nearly everything.Lol.


The roar of the water flow was incredibly loud.




One of the other walkways below ...still devoid of tour groups...yay!


Oh god yeah! Right at the edge...I could feel the spray!




A narrow little tributory...then Whhhoar...off the massive drop!


Oh hello! You are beautiful!!!


'Yes I know!'...'Look at me all you like!'


'In fact here's my friend...look at us both!'


The camera flash really showed off their electric blue plumage...


And beady eyes!! They are Blue Jay's and are very inquisitive. The one on the left was preening the other ones electric blue eyebrow in quite a vigorous and hilarious manner...I was entranced...Wiji wanted to get on!


On the rock below are Swifts huddled together just inches from the thundering water. We saw them niftily darting about catching insects.


Oh hi! Yes this really is me! Lol, Jenny Pinn I am sure you are thinking of 'Cheddar Gorge mesh cave nightmare'...ha ha! I actually went back to get Wiji to take this pic of me, It really captures the amazing views that the engineers made possible through these walkways!


The Lonely Planet (of course-yawn) said 'GET THERE EARLY!!! To see the wildlife, and on a good sunny day clouds of butterflies'. Not quite Costa Rica styleee, but these little ones were stunning.


Giant clouds of spray.


The falls proper...


And in the middle is San Martin island, that normally you can get a free boat to. Aparently its ideal for a picnic and a swim...we were gutted it was closed due to the high water level. Whatever.


On one of the lower walkways that we saw from above. The spray was blasting us here...it was really fun to get to the end of the walkway! That's Wiji totally soaked!


And here I am, loving it!


The smaller waterways cascading down though the greeness were really pretty.


Another butterfly and plenty of 'moss porn' for me!


Once we had done the top and the bottom section of walkways we started to notice a bank of grey cloud coming our way...quite spectacular and ominous at the same time!!! We were right at the bottom section now, so got a great view! It was here that we decided to do the boat ride into the falls...ha ha! In this pic below you can see one of the zodiac boats in the water...it looks tiny!!!


So we paid up, for our 12 mins (yes really) of close up water fall action, and a promise of 'going under' the falls...oh really?! Putting on some life jackets and handily getting some waterproof bags for our belongings...cheers. Below is a view from the zodiac...it was rough!


Oh hi! Wiji with the island to the right. It was only us two on the whole boat!!! How brilliant!


A totally grumpy driver...no smiling what-so-ever!


And us...with the empty boat, lol...a personal trip!


'Yeah get up there, we'll take a piccy!' Right at the front of the boat with the falls proper behind us. Lol.


Ooooh...getting nearer! To the left you can see the intensity of the falls crashing down and spraying out..


Looking in the opposite direction away from the falls, with Argentina on the left and Brazil on the right!


Zooming on in to the falls for our close up! It was here that they started shouting 'put the camera away!!' Okay...good idea...the driver then zoomed us into part of the falls on the right! LMAO! The crew was in total full body dry-suits...We could hardly breath through the spray...it was exhilarating to the max!


Here we are post zodiac experience...totally soaked to the skin, lol! It started raining at this point too.


Aaah, never mind...lets carry on and look at the rest of the falls...whilst looking like drowned rats!

Some good advise...yeah don't swim, Doh!


Two of the smaller falls called 'The brothers'.


We decided to make it back to one of the cafe's for a coffee.

Here's one for you Capel! Mmmm....


The light house that warns off boats...a bit derelict.


Some interesting advice


Ideal! More of the Oropendola birds first spotted in Tikal, Mexico. Here a different variety, smaller with a red patch on their backs. Too difficult to photograph against the grey sky...boo.


We then hoofed it off on the train that took us to the 'Devils Throat'...the ultimate culmination to the whole Iguazu experince (I actually say this without sarcasm), here the water was crashing over, with the walkway on the edge of the sheer drop...madness.

It was here in the 1930's that a common tourist practice was for a local man to row tourists to the edge of the falls for their viewing pleasure. Obviously this came to its natural conclusion when 7 German tourists and a local man rowing the boat crashed over the falls when the current was too strong...nothing was found of them. That's not allowed now!


Whhhhaaaaay!


Oh yeah...still walking around, totally soaked like total loonatics, and loving it! Lots of tour groups in plastic macs by this point!


Almighty roar!


Looking across to the Brazilian side....








And over the edge...


Another view of the Brazilian side...the sun coming out to give some great lighting effects.


And on our way off from the increasing crowds...looking back to where one of the mesh catwalks was washed away in a flood in 1992! Nice.


Spray, sun and amazing clouds.


Reassured, oh yeah.


Looking down at a small Cayman behind the foilage in the middle.


Incredible...looking back at the falls and the spray.




Part of the washed away catwalk...




Another beautiful butterfly on Wiji's bag.


Another one...poking its proboscis into the gaps in the wood.


Waiting poised for ages to see some open wings...and finally!


It was so incredibly disappointing after seeing Uri and Einat's brillinat photos, not too see any Coati's! We even asked one of the friendly park rangers...who laughed his head off and explained that they don't come out in the rain...oh no! I saw this one in the distance and ran after it...(Wiji not that impressed) the Coati didn't seem to mind...so only got this one sighting...better than nothing! They are like large racoons, but springer spaniel size.


We laughed our heads off for ages over this sign! 'But we don't have any presents for you...Sorry?' LMAO in the extreme!


A good spot on the 'jungle walk'...caterpillars chrysalis's.


Lol...actual wild guinea pigs running free...we found this very funny too!


In the midst of the other birds a large carpenter bird that we got the guys in the visitors centre to identify for us in their book...a lot of laughing happened here too.


And that was it for the park, we were there for about 7 hours in total and really, really loved it! It was spectacular!

Later that evening Wiji's Argentine dream came true... a parilla for two! They don't do them for one...ha ha. He seemed to manage okay...but a few days later told me he thought that maybe he had eaten cooked bulls testicals...'DON'T TELL ME!!!'


Puerto Iguazu, two 20 hour bus journeys, but hey! A beautiful place that we were glad to visit on our mental Argentina itinerary.

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

you were right , i could hardly believe my eyes. you on that walkway. cheddar gorge did come to mind also nat hist museum tring - big flight of steps you mike and pushchair. how many times did i have to go upand down ?! wet t-shirt competition also? why no pacamacs? xxjp

Anonymous said...

What a wonderful place. Lovely pictures and having such fun. Lucky, lucky things. xx