We set off from our lovely Nadi hotel, the Sandlewood Lodge at 7 in the morning to head to the awesome pick up at the rather plusher Hotel Mercure just round the corner. As usual we were extremely early, so I had time to peg it off and get our stove fuel bottle filled up as well as purchase some tea-bags, both essential parts of our plan to be as independent as possible.
The awesome bus was big and yellow and had awesome adventures scrawled all over it, although I was pleased to note it didn't stray from the Fiji tradition of not bothering with windows. There were a fair few people waiting with us and more already on the bus. When we arrived at the dock and picked up our tickets there was a vast crowd of excited young people waiting to go.
We swiftly dashed off to the nearby overpriced supermarket to purchase some more last minute essentials. This consisted of an enormous (and what turned out to be fairly horrific - we didn't notice that it was 58% alcohol!) bottle of Bounty Fijian dark rum and 10 packets of noodles (I was concerned that we might have to pay for lunch separately at the places we were heading). Once our student style shopping was complete we hopped on board with the other masses and were on our way.
There are about 40 separate resorts spread across the Mamancuna and Yasawa Islands that spread out north west of the main Fijian Island Viti Levu. The first ones the boat encountered were the more resorty resorts such as South-Sea, Bounty and Beachcomber Island. The big super quick cat-type vessel called the Yasawa Flyer would come to a stop and be met by boats from each of the resorts and people would quickly hop on or off, we were surprised just how efficient it all was.
Our first stop, Safe Landing Resort, was nearly 5 hours from the mainland. It was the last stop the boat made on its daily trip up and down the group of islands. We picked it because like our other choices, it allowed us to camp, and was pretty cheap including all meals. On leaving the flyer we were met by a slightly wild eyed young chap called Bros who informed us we would be serenaded by the staff when we arrived and when finished they would call out bula (Fijian for hello\welcome) and we had to shout it back as loud as we could. Little did we know this was just the beginning. The singing was actually very pleasant. The dazzlingly white Aussie chap at the back looked a little out of place, but we soon learnt he was Dave, Operations Manager.
After a swift egg sarnage, we were shown to a gorgeous little shady camp spot looking right over the water. We had to place the tent fairly carefully due to the coconuts hanging way up overhead, but apart from that it was ideal.
We had been brought ashore on the rocky side of the resort, but the other side had a lovely sandy beach. Clairy immediately spotted a giant cowrie.
The beach about 30 yards from the tent.
Looking back the other way on the beach.
'Oh hi! We're pretty chuffed with our beachy-peg.'
By the tent.
The flower wasn't sticky enough, so Clairy had to hold it there.
Just over a little ridge from the tent we were rewarded with a beautiful sunset.
That night we got proper started on our overproof rum. It was almost undrinkable, very similar to Woods 100, a drink exclusive used in Moorlynch pub to viscously stitch people up on their birthdays (what nice people we were). This recklessness with such potent liquor may explain how we didn't manage to avoid the 'entertainment' on that first evening. We suddenly found ourselves and all the other guests arranged in a row and being guided through the bula dance. Once Bros (who turned out to be the ADHD head of entertainment) was satisfied we weren't going to get any better he whacked on the Bula song, and off we jiggled for what seemed like an eternity. After this various party games not seen by anyone since their 9th birthday were played until even the most up for it of guests were begging to be released.
The next morning we were given the opportunity to go to the underwater cave at Sawa-i-Lau. I fancied the sound of swimming underwater to reach a cave lit by tiny shards of light. Clairy wasn't quite so keen so we agreed I'd go on my own with a nice Swiss couple we had met and Bros.
It was a beautiful morning.
As we headed away from the resort, the swell was quite big. The boat driver therefore made me sit right at the front of the boat as ballast. This seems to be a bit of a recurring theme on the water-based parts of our travels. We soon passed the nearby village, which leases the land to the Safe Landing resort. Most of the staff from the resort also come from the village.
Great ocean front views.
Here we passed a big rock covered in the maguey plants that Clairy loves.
Incredible colours.
Just as we arrived at the caves, I noticed 2 other tourist boats heading our way. I was a bit miffed that we all seemed to be there at exactly the same time. Bros seemed undetered though and took his time getting us up the steps towards the cave.
It was a grand sight looking down into the cave, and just as we arrived the previous group were just leaving. I hoped Bros would hurry us through so that we could have the inner cave to ourselves just for a little bit.
I took the underwater case for the camera, and got some nice shots from within the pool.
Looking up.
Looking up from underwater.
Carolyn of the Swiss couple took this one of me on the bottom of the outer cave.
Sadly Bros did anything but speed up so we wouldn't be sharing the experience with the other groups. On the contrary, he was desperate to be the centre of attention to as many people as he possibly could be. Soon then, there was about 35 people splashing about in the outer cave, generally getting in each others way and making a right racket.
Bros and the other tour guides took this opportunity (admittedly rather impressively) to scale the cave sides, and with the aid of lots of shouts of bula, to dive into the water below.
Check out the vid, he nearly landed on me. Twice.
After they had got their diving antics out of their system it was time to see the rest of the cave. Sadly this turned into a downright dangerous free for all, in which somebody tried to grab me when I swam underneath into the next chamber. Having eventually freed myself, I broke the surface to hear Bros screeching and screaming like a freak. He thought this was hilarious, but I could tell some of the kids certainly didn't.
I quickly left him to it and explored on my own to get some nice piccies of the inner cave. I later learnt that someone had drowned in the cave a few weeks before due to being drunk and getting stuck somewhere where they couldn't see (and possibly having a pre-occupied tour guide).
The one torch between 30.
Nice curvy bits.
This was one of the few entrances that light could get in through. Strangely, everyone agrees the picture looks much more like someone's insides.
Another small opening.
Back at the resort me and Clairy got down to some serious chillaxing. I'm really not a natural however, when it comes to hammocks.
Often with quite comical results. This was a genuine hammock-tardness.
With Clairy helping though, it was a lot easier.
Ahhhh...It was bloody lovely.
Soaking up that sun. I love this piccy. Cheers Clairy. x
The headland to the left of our beach.
Me by the tent again. We managed to nab a couple of chairs which added greatly to our tiny campsite.
There she is. Much more at home in a hammock.
Dave, the slightly barking Aussie manager at the resort was super friendly but had some proper mental ideas about what he planned to do with place. One of which was to dig up some of the reef and but it nearer to the resort so people wouldn't have to swim too far to see it! He also recommended the top of the nearby hill to watch the sunset from. This was a great idea only spoilt somewhat by the fact that it was the place that the local villagers held their church services, and we found ourselves drinking beer in front of some vigorously praying locals. Definitely one of our more bizarre sunset experiences.
That night the staff were made to do yet more singing and dancing. There was a slight feeling from us and a couple of others that Dave was maybe exploiting the skills of his staff a little in the name of entertainment.
Although Bros needed absolutely no encouragement to get up in front of everyone.
Clairy and Carolyn got dragged up again before Clairy asserted herself by insisting we get the hell out of there before they made us do anything else.
On the final morning Clairy snapped some nice last pics of the place.
Another of Dave's grand plans was to dig up this rocky area in front of the restaurant area and somehow put a swimming pool in (Ahhhhh...who left this man in charge!).
'Sing for them goddamnit!'. Our final serenade before we left. They did sing beautifully, it just seemed a bit wrong.
Looking back at the resort. The colours are just incredible. One of the tours we didn't do was to the blue lagoon, where the film of the same name was filmed, it just across the bay from here.
Bros' final pose as we drove out to meet the flyer.
It was a beautiful place, but we both breathed a bit of a sigh of relief at leaving Safe Landing. On we headed to our next resort choice, White Sandy Beach, praying for no more bula dances.
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