Cozumel or 'Island of the swallows' was named by the Mayans who inhabited it from 300 AD, when it was a thriving trading port. It was also an important ceremonial site in the Yucatan peninsular. Women were expected to make at least one pilgrimage here to a temple erected in honor of Ixchel, the godess of fertility and the moon. Sadly ths spanish enforced christianity and discouraged mayan religion and pilgrimage, which died out. The Spaniards introduced smallpox, and this combined with conquistodor attacks nearly wiped out the Mayan population. Those that remained returned to the mainland.
The island remained virtually deserted untill 1848 when the war of the Castes drove Mayans back to Cozumel to seek refuge. Cozumel began to thrive again in the 20th century as a trade port for the export of chicle that was harvested on the island for the production of chewing gum. When Wrigley's guzumped this industry Cozumel's economy became reliant on the construction of a US air base during WW2. At the end of the war and the beginning of another economic decline, many Mayans left the island again and it became a small fishing village. Then in 1961 Cousteau made a documentury about the island's reefs and diverse marine life, it became a tourist attaction. This was our main reason for coming here to to do a snorkelling boat trip
We caught a ferry from Playa del Carmen, the crossing took about half an hour. Cozumel is 53 by 14km so seems able to accomodate the throng of tourists, many of whom visit by cruise ship.
We didn't really see much of the island in the end, but we had a very relaxing time and were both well into our books. Our two days both felt like a sleepy sunday
A charming 50's style mural in the Cozumel Inn hotel. In the 17th century the island was a pirate hideout.
After getting a bargain room at the Cozumel inn hotel, we nipped off to the islands museum to gen up on the history of the island and learn about the marine life and reef formations. It was brilliant! Really informative with lots of models, old photos all really well presented. It reminded me of the Royal Albert Memorial museum in Exeter!
It also had its fair share of aged taxidermy, naturally. The one on the left is a boat billed heron!! Maybe the one on the right is spatular billed... it didn't say, but they provided us with some amusement.
We learnt about coral and reef formations, looked at the remains of some Mayan carvings found on the island. The plight of the 2005 hurricane wilma was well documented in a photographic exhibition that also covered the changing faces of Cozumels economy.
We were hoping to recognise some living examples of coral on our planned snorkle trip, so first we checked out some specimines in the museum.
The promenade had shops that cater for the cruise ships, Cartier, Columbian emeralds and diamond shops. And then a lot of horrible t-shirt shops. Some very big shopping Malls that have covered walkways directly transporting passengers from the cruise ships.
Cozumel had a lovely sleepy feel to the island, once you left the promenade, with little traffic and and tidy modest palm lined streets.
The ferry in the background and one of several bronze monuments to Cozumels marine life on the promenade.
Leaving Cozumel behind, two of the four cruise ships we saw here. The island has had such a dramatic life, it was fascinating to see some of it and learn about it.
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