Whilst waiting in the airport to leave Tahiti we were asked to participate in a survey of our experiences there. We presumed it was something to do with the Tahitian tourist board. The nice young lady asked us piles of questions about the place and we had to be honest about the rather rubbish service we had had from our not very budget guesthouse. I made some comments about how the locals had been extremely friendly but that coming from England we already had some issues with the French. I obviously thought this was quite funny...but Clair pointed out that the girl doing the questionnaire could well have been French herself. Ah well.
Leaving Tahiti with Air Caledonia I took some nice shots from the window of the plane. Here is the reef just as we left the airport.
And one of Mo'orea.
It was a very strange plane journey in terms of timescales. We left Tahiti on the 5th September at 6:15 in the morning, and we arrived in Noumea in New Caledonia at 9:30 in the morning on the 6th September although the flight took 6 hours. Crossing the international dateline caused this mentalness and it also meant we had booked the youth hostel in Noumea for the night before, bonus! Fortunately the fact that we didn't turn up and they knew we were coming from Tahiti resulted in them presuming we had made the mistake everyone does and they kept the room for us.
Landing in New Caledonia was also quite spectacular. From this shot you can just about make out the edge of the reef which is almost 22km away from the mainland making it the worlds biggest lagoon (apparently...we seem to have read that in various other places).
After landing safely we found out that the airport is bloody miles away from the town and taxi prices were on a par with Tahiti i.e. prohibitively expensive. The next bus was not for an hour and a half so we went back and bought a phone card, with the hope of sorting out our plans for the next 10 days.
We established that the ferry which connects New Caledonia's mainland with the Loyalty Islands (where we really wanted to go) had been broken for some time. We were just about to phone the domestic airline, when Clair's attention was grabbed by a particularly happy little child chattering to herself as she came down the stairs with her dad. A cheerful smile from the Clairy resulted in the dad offering to drive us all the way to Noumea free of charge. It was pretty random, but as a middle aged French ex-pat he didn't look too much like a mass-murderer, particularly with small child in tow. We therefore accepted and were shown to Jacque and little Camille's huge 4 by 4 thingy that Jacque proceeded to drive in what Clair called a very middle-aged-man style.
On the way his broken English revealed he was a dive master and spent most of his time out on the reefs with groups of people paying to dive with him in some of the best reefs in the world. He insisted in driving us all round town when we got there and showing us all the different marinas and shopping areas and telling us what a lovely place it was. It was a beautiful sunny day and it was hard to argue. By this time we both felt we were maybe imposing on this stranger a little too much, but found he had decided to take us back to his house to drop the little Camille off with her mum before taking us to the youth hostel (it was a Saturday...I'm guessing he was a bit bored as well as helpful).
The house was lovely. It was perched right on top of a hill with 360 degree views all around. Clair snapped a quick piccy (I thought this may have been just in case we were murdered...someone might have been able to figure out where we were).
At this point Jacques partner arrived and looked certainly rather confused if not downright hostile at some random strangers being brought into her house and playing with her daughter. Clair thought Jacques was likely to get a right talking too when he got back from dropping us. We were glad therefore when Jacques finally lived up to his promise and deposited us at the youth hostel. However, not before he had given us a whole ream of contacts for the places we aimed to visit, but particularly Ouvea...and that turned out to be a real bonus.
A slightly surreal introduction but it all worked out very nicely for us in the end. The Auberge de Jeuness (that's youth hostel in French you know, it was all coming back now...just very slowly) in Noumea was immensely well equipped with a monster cold room with lockable boxes, excellent kitchens, laundry and internet facilities and it also had a fab view over the whole town, particularly our room that was on the top floor. Ideal for a cold beer at the end of the day.
We had a wander around town and it had a thoroughly Sunday feel to it (even though it was Saturday I believe). Clairy took a pic of this nice old navy boat down on the harbour.
We spent the rest of the day trying to figure out how we were going to get to the Loyalty Islands. The only tourist information that was open on Saturday was unfortunately on the other side of town so we headed over in an overpriced taxi. The woman there was very helpful but advised us that we might have problems getting to the islands as the passenger boat was still broken and we had arrived just at the start of the New Caledonia summer holidays and most flights would be booked up. Nightmare!
We decided to get a bus back to town. we had been advised they were much cheaper than taxis but similarly infrequent sadly. On the way back we watched this stunning sunset from the bus stop.
After chatting to the super helpful woman on the desk at the youth hostel we decided the next day we would visit the stunning sounding Tjibaou cultural centre and would pop into the domestic airport on the way to see if there was any chance of getting a flight to Ouvea or one of the other islands.
Another stunningly lovely day awaited us in the morning and after waiting ages for a bus to the airport, when we got there we found we could get a flight to Ouvea. We were both super chuffed and headed on to the Cultural Centre as right happy chappies.
The cultural centre is built on the site of the 'Melanesia 2000' festival organised in 1975 by Jean-Marie Tjibaou. It was the first event of its kind that brought together Kanaks (the indigenous Melanesian people of New Caledonia) from throughout New Caledonia.
Here is a piccy of Jean-Marie looking over the site (the statue anyway).
After being educated in Lyon in France he returned to New Caledonia to work with young people in training programmes and promoting Kanka culture. In 1984 he was elected first president of the Front de Liberation Nationale Kanak et Socialist and as a pro independence leader called for immediate independence from France and was prepared to act more radically than any of those in the past to achieve it.
He signed the historic Matignon Accords in 1988 that brought relative peace to the region and set a fixed term before a referendum would be held to determine New Caledonia's future, but in 1989 he was assassinated with his deputy Yeiwene Yeiwene by a Kanak who felt he had conceded too much to the French. Today he is regarded as a bit of a legend and is often quoted.
The cultural centre was designed by Renzo Piano the same chap who designed the Pompidou centre in gay Paris. It really is a very striking building and Clairy and I were both well looking forward to visiting. Wikipedia says :
"The centre is composed of 10 units called cases, all of different sizes and different functions, but with the consistent form of vertically positioned shell-like structures which resemble the traditional huts of a Caledonian Village."
To be honest I can't quite see the comparison to Kanak huts, but it is still an intriguing design.
Outside on the walk in were various sculptures from modern pacific artists.
I particularly liked this one. Surely more than just a striking resemblance...ahem.
Inside was a permanent exhibition of truly fab modern pacific art. Clair was totally beside herself.
Sadly after this a very cheerful security guard chap came over and let us know we shouldn't be taking pictures. Darn it. We spent a good couple of hours looking at the exhibitions that detailed ancient Kanak traditions all the way up to the modern day. It was fascinating stuff.
After this was a sculpture trail through the grounds which gave us some great views of the buildings as well.
One side of the grounds descended into mangroves which gave us the opportunity of a nice distant shot of the architecture.
There was also a worked vegetable garden showing various cultivation methods including diverting water courses to grow water taro.
The location of the site gave some stunning views.
At the end of the walk was a garden containing 3 examples of Kanak grande cases (big houses) which traditional Kanak life was centred around. The first was an example of the Southern type.
The bark and thatched walls were particularly impressive.
As was the construction of the roof.
The second grande case was of the the type built on Central Grande Terre, the main island of New Caledonia. The carved roof spear is actually of major structural importance as well as symbolic.
The second one was absolutely massive.
Oh hi! It wa s amazingly cool in the huts compared to the boiling sun outside.
Lovely carved door posts.
Fires are lit in the interior to keep the thatch damp-proof apparently.
The final grande case was from the loyalty islands. This was thatched all the way to the floor.
The interior.
We thoroughly enjoyed our visit to the Tjibaou Cultural Centre.
The next day we still had some time to kill before our flight out to Ouvea in the Loyalty Islands, so we thought we would catch a taxi-boat over to Isla de Canards (Duck Island) for some apparently very good snorkelling. I liked the boats New-Yoik taxi style colours.
'Yeah hi. One of us forgot to zoom the camera back out before taking a piccy, but we still like the result, ok!'
Duck Island was quite nicely done out in faux Kanak style, complete with very cheeky seagulls.
As soon as we had got our (pretty rubbish) snorkelling gear on and were in the water we could see there was going to be masses to see down there. The water was beautifully clear as well.
The coral was vigorous and healthy and really looked like an underwater garden.
The colours were fab.
Clairy spotted some more of the bizarre looking trumpet fish.
These little fellahs followed us around wherever we went but always tried to peg it away whenever you pointed the camera at them.
Another beautiful blue clam.
I spotted this whilst swimming about and snapped a quick shot as it looked pretty bizarre. Later when we were going through the piccies Clairy exclaimed that it was the crown of thorns starfish and she had pointed it out to me on the list of seriously dangerous creatures to avoid on the airport notice. I was well pleased it came out so well.
The one in the middle here is a unicorn fish, so called because of a big poky-out bit just in above its eyes. They looked very strange indeed.
There were various bouys around indicating a path to follow and the protected area that boats were not allowed into.
Loads of fishes.
These huge leopard printed beasties were motionless in the current and remained there for the 2 hours we were in the water.
Love these little turquiose ones hiding in the coral.
A sea snake. One of these popped up for air right next to me. He didn't really seem interested in me though.
Into the bluuuuuuuuue.
Clair had spent ages trying to get a clean shot of this fish, and when she finally did she found that I had managed to poke my finger in it. Quality.
Possibly retrieving Clairy's hairband. It was a hilarious sight watching it sink to the bottom. Pretty much every fish around had a nibble at it before realising it was nylon and elastic and not calamari.
These neon blue fish were stunning to look at but very shy.
Huge coral!
A big puffer.
'Oh hi! I'm going to swim right in front of your camera...thanks'
'ITS BEHIND YOU!' or possibly 'THEY'RE BEHIND YOU!'
'Me again!'
Clairy's favourite, the turquoise fish in the coral...again.
We only saw one like this, although it appeared on various bits of literature for New Caledonia.
We thought these chaps had probably been fed previously as they swam all around us expectantly.
Squeeze the air out those ears.
Another snake. This one not banded, poisonous or aggressive either.
More trumpet fishes.
I was sure this was an octopus hiding in the coral, but he wouldn't come out so I couldn't verify it.
A big old rusted anchor that the coral had grown around.
Duck Island from the sea.
Me snorkelling with the Noumea skyline behind.
Quality.
Not sure quite what this structure was beside the reef, but there were more of the huge leopard print fish, swimming motionlessly inside it.
Big shoals away from the reef.
The restaurant was quite nicely done out on the island, but a tad pricy for us budgeteers.
We later went to the Musee de Nouvelle Caledonie. This was a modern carving outside of it.
The museum had some great Kanak and other regional pacific cultural artefacts. It was very informative although Clairy was miffed that we couldn't take any photos. Personally I'm glad that she didn't as it means I don't have to write about them.
Our last port of call in Noumea was Kuendu Beach. The only beach in Noumea that isn't right up against a main road. It was fairly pleasant, but unfrotunately rammed full of small children on activities due to the school holidays.
This rather dubious Frenchman was taking non stop footage of various kids (some possibly his own). We found it all a bit disturbing, especially as he kept getting us in his pictures. Clairy got back at him by taking one of him...take that sir!
Here is a Kanak Grande Case being built in the (not quite) traditional style.
And finally, me back at the youth hostel cooking tea in their immaculate kitchens. Nice.
Goodbye Noumea. We won't be missing those Frenchies (apart from the nice ones we know well).
1 comment:
Just great to see you both looking so well and smiley. You are both such a wonderful colour, getting to resembel all those beautiful fish! xx
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