At the communal buffet breakfast in the living room the next day we met a missionary and his 9 year old son (with retro mullets) who were from New Zealand. He told us that they had been travelling around Tanna as Missionaries. Oh dear. He also proceeded to speak Pidgin (Bislama) in a very patronising manner to one of the local women. He then scabbed, (a word I hate, but really is entirely appropriate here) a lift with us to town, but didn't offer to contribute to the cost. On the journey the missionary Dad told Wiji that he wasn't fit enough to climb the volcano on Tanna...What about that old chestnut...'judge not, lest ye be judged'. Whatever. We made our judgements on the way to the airport too!
Shock-Horror! All over Port Vila the mobile phone had recently arrived...were we too late?
We didn't really have time to worry about the mobile phone impact because the 'airport' was such a mass of chaos, noise and activity. Having already booked a flight to Tanna on the inter web in advance, we were ready for a great escape...but hold on a mo, at the ticket desk we apparently had not paid for the tickets...just reserved them. Mmmm, I was sure we were going to be paying twice...it all seemed a bit dodge-on, but hey, we handed over a wad and were on our way in another plane similar to the Ouvea flight, but a lot more battered. We were served taro chips and ki-ora on the flight and there was quite a bit of 'Oooohing' and gasping when the plane took off.
Goodbye Port Vila.
Hello Tanna!
Tanna airport was very, very small and again we had to watch as a man lugged the entire load of baggage from the plane to the hole in the wall for us to collect it...Someone help him!
It was here that we realised that the hideous French family that had been so rude in Port Vila Airport were going to stay at Tanna Evergreen Bungalows too! Oh do Fuck off will you!? We watched in horror as they hot footed it off to the transport while we took stock of the situation and waited for the next lift, boo. Naturally not only had we now bumped into them three times, but on arrival at Evergreen we realised that we would be camping behind their leaf house too...Oh dear!
We admitted to Michelle on reception that we had 'some issues' with the other guests and were going to leave, just as one of them pushed in and began loudly complaining. That sealed the deal and we agreed that it was better to walk 11km in the mid-day sun with our backpacks than stay. Michelle found it quite amusing and even tried to get through to White beach, our next choice, but they weren't answering the phone. We weren't put off by this and set off anyway on the single track dirt road.
We passed some local men splicing the bamboo with machetes to weave the walls for a new house, they waved and were very cheerful. We walked on and passed a watering hole in a meadow where some horses were drinking...it was very very hot and the air buzzed with the sound of large insects in the shade of the trees. Naked children came out to wave and shout hello at us.
Along the way, having made it back to and then past the airport, which was now deserted but for a few men in florescent vests swinging their legs on the benches. We were wandering along a very long and deserted dirt road...'what good exercise' we laughed...and 'how great that we have finally escaped from the that nightmare family!'...We were happy in our escape plan and generally having what became known as a 'Paul Theroux moment'.
Some time later we were picked up by a minibus with a very friendly bunch who insisted on hoofing our bags in and driving us down the very bumpy track to White Sands. It was here that we were greeted by Annie who showed us to a leaf house...God, it was lovely!
Our leaf house complete with Kastom mats.
Annie said in a reassuring tone, as she left us to it, 'you'll be all right here', and we knew we would, we had landed on our feet and it was proper!
The leaf house was set in some lush tropical planting with an outdoor shower at the back.
The main grounds and central shade tree.
From the beach (that did have actual white sand) Wiji taking a break to enjoy the view. While I run around manically exclaiming how great it all is. lol!
On the beach the outrigger traditional dug out canoes, the same as the ones that we had seen in the museum in New Caledonia.
Lots of coral and shells on the beach...
Tanna is a volcanic island and just off the beach at low tide you could see the edge of the island that literally drops off into the sea.
Curious starfish that hide in crevices exposing their arms.
Coral solidified in a volcanic flow.
After some chilling time appreciating White Sands, Annie said that she would walk us into Lenakel, the town that she said the locals call 'Black man Town' because there are no whites. She assured us that we could go in all the shops and would see no whites anywhere! We were very keen to get some tinned fish and noodles for some cheap lunches, as well as a mixer for our Rum...healthy.
We got to know Annie on the walk and all chatted away, she pointed out the sights and did a lot of shouting and calling out to people. It seemed as though everyone knew her...and they did! In a phrase that she used often she said 'they knows me well'. And explained that she had many brothers and sisters and even more cousins and friends who came out to check us out and say hello along the way, while Annie screamed with laughter and chatted away in Bislama.
The ferry that crosses from Port Vila to Tanna. A 12 hour crossing with standing room only and no shade...Annie had done it several times, but had never flown. A lot of cargo was being unloaded and carted into the shops while we were there.
Annie had arranged for us to have our evening meal at Leneai Palms. Mainly because they had no guests at White Sands and needed to get a cook in for us. OK. It was quite a hike into Lenakel itself, where we went in some of the shops and managed to find what we were after amongst some other rather random goods. The restaurant was some way outside Lenakel and it took us over 3 hours to get there. We were in time for the sunset!
The grounds at Leneai Palms...a few old Ozzie men in Plumbing t-shirts advertising their companies were having a drink and discussing how to mend a broken sewing machine. Lol.
After a long day we were ready for a meal. With all the hoofing about we hadn't eaten since the 7am buffet missionary breakfast...poor Wiji.
Wiji on the sunset vantage point on top of the rock.
A great view of the reef edge of the island.
'Can I eat the mackerel out of the tin?' Lol.
After dinner Annie had arranged for Rossie, one of her cousins to collect us in his pick-up. Wiji had to hop in the back, a bit of a bumpy ride home to the leaf house!
We had to be quite careful with money, what with there being no banks on Tanna. So we paid Annie up front for meals, realising that after the Lenakel shop visit we couldn't really make our own with what was on sale. We also arranged some trips with her. We were really enjoying her company and sense of humour, she had really take us under her wing it seemed.
Rossie picked us up the next day and took us off past Lenakel and inland to Yakel, a traditional Kastom village. Just what I was totally looking forward to! We were greeted by Tom who was to be our guide. He was wearing a traditional Namba, a grass woven penis sheath and immediately wanted to take us off to see the waterfall!
On the way through part of the village we saw some stunning tree houses...this one was way up high.
Lots of children came to greet us. Tom explained that he was the only one from his village that had been to school. He was chosen so that he could be a guide for tourists who had been welcomed into visiting the village since he was a boy. He said that this helped the village and helped tourists understand the traditional kastom way of life.
A massive Banyan tree and Tom below it explaining that the waterfall walk was very steep.
Not to worry, some of the girls wanted to hold my hands on the walk and had some lovely smiles for me. In a break with tradition we did take pics of the children here, after asking if it was appropriate.
\It was a very steep knife edge walk with the young boys hurtling down first.
Looking down at the boys through the foliage.
At the waterfall...
Jumping in...
We all had a swim in our underwear. Quality.
We then hoofed it back up the steep hill at a slower pace! Tom pointed out the Kava plant that was grown in the village. The root is traditionally chewed by the women who spit it into a carved wooden Kava bowl and mix it with water. It is the men who drink it. But Tom admitted that they let the women drink it too, but not in the men's hut with them, and they make it weaker. Lol, of course the women don't want to drink it with the men, sure it would be much more fun to drink with the other women! Tom said that they drink it every afternoon after they have done their work...sounds ideal!
Back in the village after the walk, the traditional leaf houses. Tom told us that the bamboo is always split and woven by the men and the women weave the leaf sections for the roof.
Wiji and Tom - a meeting of the like minded. Tom had just shown Wiji some of his 'other' crop back at his leaf house. Smiles all round! They are both surprised to find out that they are the same age. Tom was totally hilarious and told us that the wives make the woven penis sheaths and decide on how big they need to be! 'The women do the Namba's!'
I brought one of the carved wooden walking sticks and Tom explained the significance of the carving. The male figure was standing on the female figure, apparently men are always on top in Yakel. The male figure had a chicken on its head that symbolised the relationship problems between men and women, the chicken is believed to resolve these problems if it is put on the head. I hope I manage to get it through customs at the airport!
A banyan tree and walking stick display.
The main area in the village, a big clearing with the crafts set out on display.
After looking at the crafts, the men of the village had gathered to perform three traditional dances for us. It was really special to see this.
Here is a video of the dancing.
At the end of the dancing all the villagers gathered together to wave us goodbye. The village chief was there too, who we got a glimpse of, but didn't meet. He looked very old.
We got a ride back through Lenakel with Annie and Rossie in the back of the pick-up.
The air was buzzing was iridescent green flies.
Back in Lenakel...
Wiji jumped out to see if there was any bread at a shop. Around the corner came a man with a wheel barrow full of loaves!
The ferry was loading passengers, it looked incredibly full.
Back at white Sands we had time to enjoy the beach...
Taking a closer look at the dug-out canoes.
We saw the loaded ferry pass by and people in both directions came onto the beach to wave at the passengers.
Wiji didn't believe me at first that this is how a coconut palm starts to grow.
Some beautifully whittled sticks left by one of the many wandering pathways.
And later...a great place to watch the sunset...
With a couple of Rum's and some Reggae.
In the evening we had a delicious fish salad and Wiji was joined by the 'bungalow cat' who had been named 'Vodka' by some previous guests, no doubt British ones!
The next day we decided to walk back to Evergreen and book some trips with them...
Mazut (from the French word) meaning diesel, sold in similar places all over the island.
A big herd of goats in a suitably craggy place.
We got to see how the bamboo house was progressing after we first viewed it on our escape mission.
On the reef a man fishing, barefoot with a spear gun.
It was at Evergreen that Wiji managed to get on the next trip to the volcano and I got a lift back to White Sands, where Annie was pleased, it seemed, to have me all to herself. She asked me if I would like to come to her Auntie's village to taste the Kava. I agreed, and she screamed with laughter grabbing my arm and pulling me close to whisper that we must keep it a secret from her Case (family group). I offered her a Rum and we drank it scanning the area for Willomena the other lady working at White Sands, who Annie didn't want seeing her drinking. Annie suggested that we bring the Rum with us (a great plan, in my mind) and proceeded to grab my arm and shout 'Ooooh naughty Annie will drink the Kava with you!' It was hilarious and I knew that this was the start of a bit of a sesh!
Annie seemed really happy to be knocking off work early and practically dragged me by the hand off site and sneaked us passed her village and onto the main track, where we were immediately spotted by two of her male cousins, who on seeing us lent in close to me and whispered 'you are going to drink the Kava with Annie, yes?' I doubted that it was really that much of a secret after that, but it did seem like fun!
When we arrived at the Aunties village I was greeted with kisses and hugs from the women and Annie seemed to be showing me off, it all chilled out when we sat on one of the Kastom mats in the shade and watched the women play volley ball. Annie did a lot of shouting at her cousin Jeffrey to make the Kava - from what I could make out...it all seemed to be on Island time, naturally. Jeffrey was also sent up an enormous tree to cut down some cut-nuts that he sliced open with a machete to reveal a nut in the centre of the fibrous husk. They were quite oily like brazil nuts. We also had some boiled Taro courtesy of auntie who had a really beautiful smile. I asked Annie how old she was and after much debate in Bislama Annie told me that 'We are not like you, we don't make a date'. So I guessed that she must have been in her fifties, but almost wrinkle free.
Eventually Jeffrey ushered Annie and I passed all the young men outside and into the bamboo Kava bar. It had a little serving window at one end and Annie's uncle served us. I brought two shells (coconut halves) for 100 vatu each and on Annie's instructions we downed them in one. The taste was both peppery and muddy, the colour was like muddy water. Annie said that they used powder at the Kava bar and didn't chew up the root but pounded it up. I asked if we could have another and Annie reassured me in a quite voice that we could, only to then turn slightly and shout passed me at Jeffrey for more. He promptly served up to shells and placed them in the circular cut outs on the bar shelf for us to drink. We downed them again and Annie handed me a cut-nut to eat, beckoning me to do so. My throat and mouth were already quite numb and eating seemed to relieve this quite a bit. I suggested that we had a third shell, knowing that the men outside were waiting to come in. She was pleased! So I paid up and we stood in the middle of the bar and downed the next shell. Annie's uncle looked a bit concerned. Annie then suggested that we have a Rum next..'you will like the Kava with a Rum mmmmmm!' It felt quite teenage pulling out a bottle from my rucksack, but it did take away the taste, and I guess that is what she meant.
We left the Kava bar and joined the other women on the mats. I was feeling wasted and my pupils felt like saucers. My heart was pounding and it was no effort to laugh and join in the conversation with the women. I met Christina, a teacher in the village, who later in the night invited me into her house and gave me an Island dress with Frangipani flowers all over it. Annie encouraged me to wear it immediately and on leaving the house she shouted 'you look lovely in your island dresssss!' A phrase I was to hear through out the night.
I don't really know where the time went, but soon enough it was dark and we were saying goodbye to everyone and Annie was leading me by the hand into the darkness and off to White Sandy. I felt totally wasted, and totally unprepared to meet her family as she thrust me through the door into the communal kitchen. I don't know who was more surprised...me or them. What was this white woman doing in an island dress with massive saucer eyes? It was a quality moment for sure! When we finally made it back to the leaf house I had a pretty good idea that Wiji would have the same startled look on his face on seeing me in the island dress. He nearly burst out laughing at me, but managed to keep in under control enough to say goodnight to Annie and put me to bed under the mosquito net.
The next morning I got up really early and went to the beach to see the sunrise, I still felt quite wasted.
It was so glassy and so was I.
Annie told Wiji that she was so proud of me and that I wasn't like the others, 'she drank the Kava!' Annie had also invited me to come to the Saturday market with her, so after breakfast we strolled off down the track at a leisurely pace, with Annie laughing her head off and shrieking at the women she knew along the way.
The market was in full swing under a central shade tree.
Bunches of Taro.
Kava roots carefully tied were being perused by groups of men discussing their merits and turning them over in all seriousness.
Hand rolled tobacco leaves.
It was here, with my Kava head, that I nearly got run over by a pick up truck full of young men sitting on the back, around a skinned carcass of a cow. Quite a sight for the morning after.
The centre of the market. The girl in the red t-shirt was getting married next weekend and Annie was going to be her witness.
Looking back towards the port. It was here that Annie gave me a present of two chicken feather sticks that are used as headdresses in the circumcision ceremony that is still alive and well on Tanna. Later she told Wiji that I was to choose which one he could have. Lol.
Beautiful palm leaf woven baskets full of potatoes and some bananas. A chicken with its legs tied up in the middle awaits its fate. Everything was immaculately presented and had a written price on display. I wanted a woven bunch of clementine's on the branch, but we had spent our left over cash.
Then we caught a minibus back that took us all the way back passed the airport again and onto Evergreen, stopping to buy some Lap'Lap and giving Annie and I a slice of the local dish to eat on the journey, so at least I had some thing to offer Wiji when we got back!
1 comment:
That sounds ike a really genuine sesh. The island looks lovely, the children and the families. What a great time you are having.
xx
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