Thursday 8 January 2009

Gunung Mulu National Park - Day One

Oh hi! Niah wasn't my fave cave experience. The smell of guano or the feeling of slipping into the oily blackness of the cave didn't really help when I was feeling rancid. By the time we had booked our flights to Gunung Mulu, I was still feeling ill, but looking forward to the Jungle walks.

The flight took about 25 mins from Miri, and is the only way to get there, apart from some very tenuous multiple boat and random bus journeys. We were hoping for a twin Otter plane, like in the Solomon's. We saw two on the runway and were even more disappointed when we got on a larger plane with only 12 other passengers. We got some great views as we flew over the rainforest...


The cloud shadows over the jungle...


And the massive winding rivers...


It all set the scene nicely for our mini-break into the jungle.


Just like Bako, (but less run down) we had a private room with a fan. This was totally necessary as by the afternoon the temperature was high and there was no breeze. When we arrived we chilled in the room until 2pm and then joined the show caves tour. We were in a group with 3 others and our guide, who's job it was to escort us down the 3km jungle board walk and into the cave (bureaucratic overkill). Fortunately though, he was happy for us to linger behind and enjoy the tranquillity free from the group.

Don't touch or eat me!


There were lots of dragon and damsel flies and some very large fast moving butterflies.


Our first view of the limestone rising out of the jungle.


For sometime we were followed by a small yellow bee that wanted to fly in Wiji's ear! lol.



Before we got to the entrance of the cave we sat and took in the scenery for a bit. Its often hard to grasp the true scale of what you are looking at. Norm in Waitomo, NZ, raved about wanting to come here as Mulu has the worlds longest cave passage over 2km in length and 174m in height. Today the largest part of the cave was only open to researchers. Here we were going to see a small part of the cave system...


The limestone cliff face looming over us was incredible.


Walking up to the entrance of deer cave we could see many tiny, tiny waterfalls raining down from the canopy and rock face above. Quite spectacular in the sunlight, although our tiny camera couldn't quite cope with the contrast.


The first cave we entered, Lang's cave was much easier to access than Niah, and once inside we got a glimpse of the incredible limestone formations.




Every surface was oozing, foaming and dripping. The effects of millions of years of limestone erosion and running water.










Looking back out to the entrance of the cave.




Some of the frilly kelp like formations on the roof above.


This cave was incredible and unspoilt.


There was just so much to see and take in.


Delicious.




Lots of textures.




The cave was lit in a really atmospheric manner that added to the awe-inspiring feel.




Some of the formations were spindly,long and thin and like nothing we had seen before.


Some of the limestone formations actually looked like the giant coral that we had seen in the Solomon's, but it wasn't. Limestone here was formed by coral lifting out of the sea and then being compacted again into the land mass, and over time becoming limestone.


Our guide explained that it wasn't until the first westerners explored the cave's that the indigenous people felt that it was safe to enter the depths. Traditionally the dead were buried in the cave to pass into the next life, and the cave mouth itself was used as shelter.


We had a good amount of time to spend looking at the formations...


Before heading out and onto the colossal deer cave. Deer cave got its name from the fact that deer would enter the cave to lick the guano to get their necessary salt and minerals, and men would then trap the deer for meat while they were inside the cave.


The walkway to the adjoining deer cave.


Rather like Niah the colour contrast between the red ochre of the guano and the greens of the algae was jarring.


It was equally fascinating to see the interior as to view the exterior from the cave openings.




Lots of water was pouring down from the roof.




The famous profile of Abraham Lincon, lol.


Guano mountains galore. Here we could hear and see the bats. Our guide pointed out a huge black mass on the roof of the cave and explained that was one colony of bats...it was enormous!


I took a quick vid to show the hugeness of the cave.




After leaving deer cave we headed back to the viewing area where we had originally stopped to take in the vastness of the cave. We waited for dusk staring intently at the giant mouth. We hoped that the conditions would be right to see the millions of bats that fly out of the cave to feed on insects...

We were not disappointed, but rather shocked when the first group flew out!


The bats swirled around in a tubular formation from the cave and passed overhead.




Lots more groups followed. They were coming from different openings in the roof of the cave as well as the mouth of the cave.




Sometimes several groups at once, swirling around at different altitudes above us...




And off into the jungle...


How perfect, the moon was out too!


One of the last groups that we watched left the cave high up in the canopy and rotated around in a ring. This was amazing!


Here, being joined by more groups. This was one of the most immense wildlife viewing experiences for me on the trip.


Here is a video of the bats...


After watching the bats until it got dark we headed back down the board walk to HQ in the dark. This was excellent as the jungle had really come alive with the noise of millions of insects and some very funny frog noises to keep us occupied. We were accompanied by a large flying bee, or beetle that wanted to fly between us for some of the way too.

Even if I wasn't feeling hungry, Wiji was glad that the food at Mulu was really good! Here he is enjoying a Laksa.

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