Wiji took a bit more persuading nearer the time because we had arrived at the start of Costa Rica's rainy season...more's the better in my opinion to really experience this environment. So off we went from San Jose by bus through the very tropical green wilderness that seemed to stretch as far as the eye could see.
We travelled along the edge of the Parque Braulio Carrillo, viewing its thick virgin forests. It has a massive bio-diversity because of the varying altitudes from Volcan Barva's cloud forest to the humid lowlands towards he caribbean. It was amazing to think that we were only 30 mins outside of San Jose and the landscape was so wild.
The Rio Sucio, or 'dirty river' with its yellow waters that carry volcanic minerals.
We headed to the small town Cariari, where we booked a bus to take us to meet the lancha that would motor us off to Tortuguero...how exciting! Cariari was qute a dusty little place that was very humid. We wandered the main road that was the town and brought some snacks for the journey including a beautiful avocado from Nicaragua, that sadly turned out to be rotten inside, that is definitely the first and last time I let someone else choose it for me! Wiji was so upset!
The bus that we caught filled up very quickly with school children and made lots of stops along the way out of Cariari . We drove though the lush green fields and then on single track roads with banana plantations rising on each side as far as the eye could see.
We passed one of the Chiquita banana processing plants. It's mad to think that fruit travels so far to be in our supermarkets. We had to stop and all get out of the bus to walk through a chemical shoe bath at a check point along the way. We also got a glimps of some plantation worker housing. They were single floor units on mass in lines, living right next to the banana plantation. We thought this could not be good for the workers health with all the chemicals that are sprayed by plane on the valuable crops.
Out of the bus window...bananas hidden in the protective blue bags.
We travelled for miles through this landscape, not seeing a sole. Then the bus stopped and the locals told us this was our stop....? We got out onto a single track road in the middle of a plantation and followed a local into the jungle, slightly suspicious in my mind, but hey, a lancha was waiting for us in a clearing! Would you believe it?!
Here is Wiji waiting on the lancha. It was so shallow it looked as though the boat was run a ground.
At this pont we really felt that we were out in the wilderness, it was beautiful. The river was quite narrow in places with fallen vegetation, making navigating these waters very difficult. But fortunately that wasn't our job, and was expertly done as only a local can. We sat back and really enjoyed a tranquil journey. A glass of wine at this point would have been great!
At the start of the journey there were banana plantation on either side right up to the waters edge. There was occasionally some clearings and some farm land.
Lush green riverbanks.
A giant almond tree with the silouette of the Montezuma Oropendola's nests. It was brilliant to hear them again.
Quite quickly the vegetation changed from river bank to jungle forest. We were now in Parque National Tortuguero! It was here that we could see large duran fruits hanging over the water and here howler monkeys in the trees. The dense foliage became much bigger and hung over the river, making it narrower, darker and more intimate.
So it was a real surprise when suddenly we sped out of the tiny waterway and emerged into bright sunshine and an enormous intersection of waterways!
We sped along for miles on the massive open waterways not seeing a single other boat or other people, then occasionally there were signs of human life on the banks. People waved at the boat.
Here was our first glimps of Tortuguero village.
We were met at the jetty by Richard who had lived in Tortuguero for 7 years, coming here on a holiday from the Nicaraguan caribbean coast, never to leave. He took us, a Canadian couple and a Japanese girl up the jetty and walked us through the village chatting away.
We had made a reservation at Miss Miriam's (our first and only reservation on the whole trip!) Having read about it in the guide book and wanting to endorse a well established local business. We were glad that we had phoned ahead because the others on the boat had not done the same, and we could feel a bun fight coming on...oooh ugly! However our host Roberto who was uber chilled was there to great us at Miss Miriam's and showed us to an upstairs room, perfect!
There was no map in the book, or available at the jetty or the shop, so we made do for our time here with this one that we found in the centre of the village, photographing it so that we could use it. You can see the river on one side and the caribbean sea on the other on this map, it seemed quite a short walk in between. There was no cash point here so we had to plan for that (joy). It did feel wondefully cut off. The climate was sooo hot and humid, which I love...poor Wiji much less so. Our pace really slowed down accordingly!
Checking out the duran fruit in Miss Junie's garden involved running on her lawn, sorry! Then getting a bit confused over her 'private land' situation. We did check out her restaurant. It had obviously had a make over, there were some full on table decorations and it sadly looked a bit 'tourist safe', probably for the day trippers staying in the package lodges down the river. Oh well.
The duran fruit. An 'I spy' tick off.
Watching the sunset over the river.
Looking towards Cerro Tortuguero, a 119 metre hill north of the village. This is the highest coastal point north of Limon.
After exploring the Village we went back to Miss Miriam's for some Caribbean creole flavours. Wiji with his coconut chicken. I had fish in garlic butter. Wiji's new motto being 'everyday an adventure, every meal a feast'. I kid you not!
I loved these beautiful flowers on the tree outside our room.
Wiji at Miss Miriam's. We had a great view of the Caribbean Ocean.
Nipping off around the island we were greated by a man sitting outside who invited us in for breakfast that his wife would make for us. Naturally we took him up on this.
And popped around the corner to his home.
He had the smallest puppy we had ever seen. It would have fitted in a pint glass. It seemed very healthy too. Here's Wiji after I persuaded him to grab it. We really laughed our heads off at it tripping about. We returned here to have breakfast again. They made super lush scrambled eggs, gallo pinto (rice and beans) and lovely homemade pancakes.
Walking towards the centre of the village on the only concrete pathway (main street).
There were quite a few remnants of the banana plantations here with rusted out machinery scattered about.
Some of it had been reconstructed to decorate the more scenic jetty where we watched a western couple pose for wedding piccy's against the setting sun.
There was a super chilled atmosphere to the place that we really loved...well you could hardly rush about in the heat and humidity!
There was a one man police presence and a police building with this choice sign near by for touist amusement I guess. A short walk from the police station was a seating area under some trees where we could smell the sensimilla.
Looking towards the beach across the football field. Each evening a match was in full swing, with the whole village cheering from the sidelines. It was here that you got a real sense of the community. It was all very laid back and friendly.
We got a great view from Miss Miriam's. It was a great time to have a few beers, although we didn't see the locals doing the same. Sure enough the heavens opened with some heavy tropical rain and everyone disappeared again. If it hadn't been for the football matches we would have hardly seen anyone. People seemed to be in their homes and out of the heat in the day. In the morning the place was deserted.
It was watching the soccer one evening that we met Kiwi couple Warrick and Amanda, and had a few beers. We discussed various important issues arising from our travels including but not lmited to; the similarity of our route, frequency of laundry, being sick whilst swimming in the sea, the necessary instant death of western bongo players, going on tours, and the distinct definition between backpacking and the slightly more discerning older independant traveller (i.e., us and them). We were collectively glad to clear this last point up, which seemed to unify us. As a result, we went for a meal together, not at Miss Junie's because we were all concerned it would be too expensive (meaning less beer overall.) We had a hilarious time with them and particularly enjoyed the 'white lobster story' told by Amanda, and the 'extreme kids story' (because Warrick was laughing so much at his own story).
Naturally we brought more beer to drink later back on the balcony at Miss Miriam's. (they had to sub us, the shame). Here Amanda assured us that her family farm was much better then Warricks family farm hands down. It was at this point that we enquired where they would be when we would be in New Zealand, completely abusing their hospitality. They thoroughly assured us that of course they would meet us at the airport! Ha ha. We exchanged emails and they were off early the next morning. Thanks for your company!
The skies were amazing. This was in the evening before another downpour. The light changed dramatically. I loved laying in bed in the morning listening to a massive downpour. You could really feel the moisture in the air. We had many cold showers to cool off in our room and really chilled to the max. The only thing missing was a hammock...we didn't have one sadly. I did wave to a man who I saw in one each day on his porch by the river. He had his legs kicked out straight in it, quite a unique pose. He waved me off on the last day and said goodbye.
In order for our money to go further we swapped lunch for homemade banana cake and an iced cappuchino. Who would come up with this idea? Here he is chilling at the bakery.
We went onto the beach several times, but the guide book warned of sharks and strong rip currents which we could see. This was a shame, in this climate it would have been great to get in the sea. The beach was practically deserted each time we went. We kept seeing the coconut man sat at his stall on the beach. He waved us over and we went for a visit.
He was very chatty, but didn't speak english. He was very keen to make us 'coco-loco', and pulled a bottle of Nicaraguan rum he had stashed in the palm roof. He talked us through the various coconuts and their flavours and we picked one each that he opened with a machette for us to drink. So we sat with him for a bit on the beach.
A mix of Afro-Caribbean, Costa Rican's and Chinese made for some totally beautiful people in Tortuguero, coconut man was no exception! Here he is with the machete deftly removng the husk so that we could eat the flesh. It was delicious. When we left he shook our hands and waved us off. We looked back and saw him in the distance sitting down on the beach.
Wow...what a truly beautiful place.
1 comment:
Wow Tortuguero here we come! What a wonderful sounding and looking place. I need to find it on the atlas now.
Love C&B xx
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