Wednesday, 3 December 2008

Colac Bay to the Catlins

Oh hi! After finishing the Hump Ridge Track we headed straight to the Colac Bay Tavern, where we were welcomed back by Faye (from the bar) who found it very funny that we were hobbling around. We were both in much need of showers and had to clean our boots and re-pack the whole car. We also did a mass of clothes washing. The meant that when we finally got into the pub, later that evening, we were wearing what was left of our clothes and that was unfortunately brightly coloured beachwear.

As we approached the Tavern we noticed that the car park was full of pic-up trucks and dogs running around, there was also a multitude of wellies abandoned by the door. It was a Friday night and the pub was packed. It felt as though everyone stopped shouting (Kiwi chatting) to turn around momentarily and stare at us. We totally stuck out from the locals, who were mainly men in very short (franny pants style) shorts and big wooly socks...quality moments...

We had a celebratory meal of blue cod and chips in the pub and drank the night away whilst chatting to some local farmers from Gore. They later invited us to come out the next morning at 6am on a fishing trip with them. They were sure that even though Wiji hadn't got a PADI licence, he would be fine to dive with them for crayfish. When I questioned them about how they were going to catch the crayfish, they explained that they were going to just grab them in the water. Lol. So we arrange to meet in the car park the next morning. They, of course were driving and managed to stumble out of the pub and presumably drive home.

The windswept trees on the road to Colac Bay.


Colac Bay, the backpackers and Tavern with nice fibre glass surfer.


Whilst sorting out all our stuff and taking it in turns to use the showers we bumped into a local man coming out of the men's toilets. He was wearing a vest that sagged and exposed both his nipples at once, very unfortunate. He happily informed us that he had blocked the toilet. We later saw him coming and going from the caravan that he probably lived in. This was his Ute.


We didn't catch our lift for the fishing trip, and when we did wake up we found we were quite stiff and slow going to start with, lol. We started the day by feeding the hens. It was whilst doing this that John turned up with his brother (the farming fishermen from the night before), to say sorry that they did not show. John said that the current/wind /tide was too strong (nothing to do with massive hangovers, oh no!) We were really touched that they had turned up an thanked them for a great night, and declined their other offer of paua fishing trip instead and said our goodbyes.

Run Chicky, Run! Silly Silky is always behind...


Wiji feeding the Rasta goat that threw itself at the fence, but could not really see past its long fringe. It just stood still waggling its tongue out of its mouth for the bread.




Silly Silky hen, always at the back and always a bit too slow, even when we did specifically throw bread at it, yes, at it!


Inside/out the backpackers. A great place to stay and great memories too.


After breakfast we decided to head off to Riverton and check out the Paua shell shop. Wayne the owner was on hand to talk us through the many shells on display and we selected one from Providence Rock in the very south west tip of NZ Fiordland. The shell still had parts of its rough outer shell exposed as well as the rainbow of colours underneath. Wayne, a true Kiwi, had always eaten paua, and regaled us with stories of is his boyhood, diving for paua and cooking them on a beach fire in the shell. He had enormous rough hands and said that he had always worked with paua. He was happy to give us some top tips for our journey too.

Another day in NZ, another giant fibre glass monument. It was quite fitting that while having my piccy taken here all the fishing lads from the night before drove passed tooting and waving. Lol.

Riverton Paua.


We drove on through flat and windy Invercargill and on Eastwards to Curio Bay, approaching it from the more scenic dirt road that Wayne had suggested. Curio Bay being one of his family haunts.

We booked ourselves into the Dolphin backpackers at Curio Bay. It seemed to be partially run by sulky teenage travellers who preferred to be sprawled on the old sofas than being helpful. Lol. This did however, mean that we were just down the road from the viewing point at Curio Bay, where an hour or so before sunset the yellow eyed penguin would come ashore. We cooked a curry and then headed off. We were lucky enough to arrive at the same time as some middle aged British twitchers who were more than happy to let us have a look through there bins! Excellent! We all excitedly watched the lone penguin do very little for quite some time...

There it is on the rocks!


Every time I tried to take a pic it turned its head, making it actually look headless! Lol.


Looking across Curio Bay and frantically scanning for yellow eyed penguins, as the wind whipped around us and even Wiji was cold.


Yes, a headless yellow eyed penguin! Oh yes, very rare indeed!


The rocky inlet at Curio Bay that was awash with long rubbery strands of kelp. And below in the foreground a lone sea lion.


The lone penguin suddenly picked up speed and decided to get back in the sea! All eyes were on it. I managed to take a pic just as it looked down before jumping in...yes it still looks headless! Then that was it, we swapped wildlife sightings with the British twitchers (who had also been to Galapagos, lol) and then called it a night.


The next morning, when the tide was out and penguins weren't waiting to come ashore, I went down to Curio Bay to check out the petrified forest.


Fossilised Jurassic age trees.




When I was spotted by an oyster catcher I new my time was up and left the beach to avoid being dive bombed.


We drove on through the Catlins to McLean Falls. The walk to the falls signposted native trees, and here we came across the Manuka tree, below in silhouette on what was quite a grey day. Its flowers were very much like may blossom.


Walking through the Rimu tree forest...


To the McLean Falls....


We loved the stepped cascade of water, it made the actual gushing torrent seem more refined!


The smaller falls at the bottom.


Back at the car park, some older British walkers shouted to us 'Is it worth it?' We found that quite funny. If we had said no they would have probs got back in their cars!

We motored on to Papatowai and stopped at the Lost Gypsy Gallery that was in fact a bus by the side of the road. In the drive way was an excellent post box constructed out of corrugated iron. 'Whale mail'.


The gallery itself.




Of course I did press this button! I got squirted with water from what I later identified as the rubber face of Margaret Thatcher.


Inside the bus where many automata experiments by artist Blair Sommerville. It was all very interactive, imaginative and hilarious.

A sign for the staff room door, or indeed any dull meeting room perhaps?


Inside the bus, every surface was occupied. Blair told us that he used to be a ceramicist but also loved fiddling with things and making things move. He had always lived in the area and now managed to make a living from the gallery that also showcased his friends work too.


The bullet cases and flower lights...


A short vid of Wiji winding of a piece of road kill automata...


After a good look around and much laughing out loud, we purchased one of his ingenious 'Southern Gurgles'.

We drove on and headed north of Owaka to Nugget Bay. It was blowing a massive hoolie. As we parked up at the first view point and a man banged on our window and advised us to reverse the car so that when we got out the doors would not blow off! It was certainly funny watching him try to hold the door open as the wind forced it shut while his wife was trying to leave the camper van, LOL.

We drove off laughing up to the higher vantage point as Wiji was still keen to walk along the precarious coast past to the light house. I took my turn at staying in the car and watched the hilarious sight of parents dragging toddlers by the hands like kites off around the exposed ridge pathway.

Lovely pics of his walk... The knife edge...


No horizontally flying toddlers here, sadly.


The Nuggets and proof that the earth really is round, lol.


Down below, elephant seals...maybe?




A lovely day for it! It was actually. After Wiji had a look around we drove off around the coast and got great views of the huge waves crashing on the shore in the distance.


An elephant seal perhaps, or maybe just a sea lion?




Back down on the coast road and an 'after I've eaten it' paua letter box display.

Monday, 1 December 2008

Hump Ridge Track - Day Three

We did aim to get to bed quite early for some quality rest and to enjoy our super hut, but ended up chatting the evening away with our fellow trampers. Before we set off Wiji had one more lie down on the mahoosive bed...after all this was an actual bed with real pillows and a duvet- solid gold!

'No really, I am ready to go'.


Naturally we were a bit stiff at the start of the day, but that quickly passed as our muscles warmed up and we really started up a great pace!


We left at 8:30 am and the sun was shining, we were really enjoying the morning and the light coming through the canopy.




We stopped to try to capture the movement of the water, the light was right and Wiji snapped this top shot.


In almost every part of the walk we heard the beautiful song of a particular tiny little bird but we never actually saw it. It managed to hide very very well. I recorded this vid to capture its lovely song that made me think it was happily tidying up the forest.


We were so chuffed with the weather, it was ideal for the more open terrain of the last day.




After hoofing it through the forest at an enthusiastic pace for 3 hours we reached Breakneck Creek. We had actually been going great guns too!


Crossing the bridge we paused and took in the view. Wiji suggested a food break, lol.


He does have some great ideas! We sat down for a bit and had a sesame seed bar, but didn't linger as we could feel our legs stiffening up immediately.


On we went to our first beach of the day, Blowholes Beach, we were sensibly decided to put more sun cream on.


Wet, sweaty, smelly, muddy and sandy.


Looking inland at the flora...


...And then running to catch up!


We were the first ones on the beach.


Apart from the deer.


Looking back at the Hump Ridge. It did seem so far away, now that we were back down on the beach, but we still had quite a way to go...




At the end of the beach we looked out to sea and Wiji threw some stones into the water, it was then that we got dive bombed by a very angry seagull, just the one, but it returned to zoom over our heads in repeat fly overs. Quality.


At the end of the beach we climbed the headland path to the next beach...


Once again it was deserted and pristine.


Stewart Island in the distance...


I found a cat's eye shell with the crustacean still alive and the door still in place. I had only ever seen the door in the sand previously.


Mucking about with NZ green lipped mussels, there were plenty on the beach and they were huge!


Beachcomber deluxe pickings.


The drift wood was wonderful!






There was a lot of admiring it.


The beach ended in the same way as the last, with some nicely eroded islands.


After one last look we Left the cove and climbed back up to the coastal terrace.


The track brought us back to the junction to Okaka, where we had paused on the first day to look over at the view and make our way up the very steep Hump Ridge. This time the weather was a lot better, and we certainly felt fitter.


The Flat Creek Swing Bridge, for the second time.


Checking out the damage.


On the first day this scene looked quite foreboding, but now the sky really enhanced the bleached silvery wood.


We were not surprised to find the giant puddles waiting for us.


Looking back down Blue Cliffs Beach at the array of drift wood. We decide to sit in the shade here and eat some lunch. The Canadian girls caught us up and hoofed on passed without seeing us in the shade.




Back on the track and enjoying the appropriate message on the fisherman's hut, it was true - we were.


Admiring the draping layer of soil on rock face.


The Waikoau River Swing Bridge were the tannin coloured tarn water ran into the sea.


It was after the bridge that we had the massively steep steps to climb up from the beach. The wardens had cheerfully warned us that they would seem to go on forever. They did look really ominous from the beach, and now I can't believe that we didn't take any pics of them. They were sooo steep, I guess at the time we put all our energy into getting up them...And we did it pretty damn fast.

We really knew that we were on the home straight after the steps, with the forest walk to go of about 3/4 of an hour. We had been really pleased with ourselves for beating the suggested times all day. But we both felt that our feet were none to happy, Wiji with an enormous blister and me with the sensation that the pads of my toes were grinding off against my socks. We did motor on though, with our own individual hobbles.


The vine in the last section of forest was like a linear drawing. It was very stiff, but at the growing tip it was like bendy black licorice.


Heading out of the forest and towards the Rarakau car park...


At the end of the trail, where we first began, the Canadian girls were peeling off their footwear to reveal huge blisters and we were all hoping that our lift would arrive. We were about half an hour early and in need of this time to do some SERIOUS stretching. It was good to see that they were hobbling too!

Our lift arrived and took us all back to the visitors office, for us to sign out and endorse the trail to some interested walkers considering the route. It had been such a great experience, really enjoyable, challenging and with lots of interesting sections to look forward to along the way. At the end what we were most looking forward to was a return to Colac Bay, a shower and a pub blue cod and chips with some well deserved pints to celebrate.