Tuesday, 3 June 2008

Vivarium, Jardin Botanico, Museo de Ciencias Naturales

Oh hi! Continuing our tour of Quito we headed off to Parque la Carolina, north of the Mariscal to see three attractions situated in the park...well it was a very sunny day.

Our first stop was the Vivarium, home to 87 reptiles native to Ecuador. We weren't disappointed. We got to see some very tiny tree frogs, a caymen, iguanas, gekos, terapins, and a whole variety of snakes.

The Boa Constrictor's were the star attractions for us...here are two sleeping.


Sleeping Emerald Boa Constrictors.


And finally, you could actually hold a Boa Constrictor! This one had been bred in captivity so wasn't aggressive, and was used to being handled. It's head is looped over itself by my left hand. This one was 15 years old and only a meter in length, but could eventually reach 4 and a half meters. It was incredibly beautiful, but not as lively as Michael's South American Garter snake, Trevor!


Next we nipped across the park to the Jardin Botanico, home to more than 300 plant and tree species form Ecuador. We walked around the grounds in the sunshine, the noises of the city humming away in the distance and a backdrop of skyscrapers. It was great to have the place to ourselves.

We enjoyed the orchid greenhouse.


We saw a lot more orchids in flower here than we did in Guatemala. This one was particularly unusual.


I have this plant! If Jenny Pinn hasn't killed it! LOLx


Wiji loved the cactus gardens...




We checked out the herb, medicine and agricultural gardens and watched some hummingbirds.

We then went off to the Museo de Ciencias Naturales, which according to the lonely planet, is the country's best natural history museum. It was quite odd and had a lot of 'threadbare' and miss-shapen stuffed animals, a bit like the Popayan natural history museum, but without the acrylic paint. Oh dear.

There were some interesting skeletons in this display that you could walk through. We marvelled at the jaw of a False Orcha, and the top of a skull of a Humpback Whale.


A skeleton of a sloth.


Wiji admired the condor...hope we actually see one on our travels, hopefully a bit healthier than this one.

Monday, 2 June 2008

La Mitad del Mundo and Museo Solar Inti Ñan

Equador's name unsuprisingly comes from the fact that it sits neatly on the equator (no really). Therefore, we could hardly miss the opportunity of seeing the actual line and gurt monument where french scientist Charles-Marie de La Condamine made his measurements in 1736. The guide books advised us that we should defo go on a sunday as although there would be more crowds, there would also be live music and it would be a a lot of fun. So off we popped.

The bus seemed to take forever to get there but eventually we did. The place was a hilariously touristy affair, with lots of tacky gift shops, a museum of miniature Quito and Planetarium. Sadly the salsa music we had been promised in the book was replaced by a downright awful violin recital. We skipped all this and headed straight to the monument.

Here's the lady standing right on what we thought (and were told) was the genuine equator.


We got slightly carried away with some silly shots. This one took forever to get as I just can't keep still.


Clairy teetering on the equator. She nearly made herself hysterical posing for this one.


We soon decided we had to get out of this place, and we had heard that Museo Solar Inti Ñan just round the corner was much more interesting. It damn well was as well. It was a crazy outdoor garden of a museum with all kinds of equatorial experiments to be played with as well as various archeological and anthropological displays


As soon as we had arrived and begun our tour with a cheerful young Quitonian(?), the first thing they pointed out to us was that their museum was on the real equator as measured by GPS, not like the monument we had previously been at, that was almost 200m off. Sadly even normal mobile phones don't work in Equador so I had no chance of confirming this.


We were then taken round a number of hilarious and I would say fairly dubious experiments indicating the power of the equator! As the earth slightly bulges on the equator this in theory means there is less gravity, and we along with everyone else there joined in making ourselves look extremely foolish trying to push each other hands down on and off the equator line. Another of their claims was that it was easier to balance an egg on the head of a nail on the equator than off it. Clairy did actually manage to do this and won herself a genuine stamped certificate! I had no chance with my shaky-shaky hands. I was slightly disappointed in the name of science however that there seemed to be no control experiment off the equator!

Then came the moment I had been waiting for. The whirpool sink experiment. Sure enough, when the sink was placed directly above the equator line, there was no discernable whirpool and the leaves in the water didn't spin, but on the north side the water spun clockwise, and on the south it spun anti-clockwise! Unfortunately, we had already read that this shouldn't happen, because the Coriolis force, which is supposed to be responsible, actually has no effect on tiny bodies of water. I tried to figure out how they achieved it, but couldn't. Here's a picture of the sink used. I reckon it has something to do with the shape.


Later on I couldn't resist, so asked about it and they replied that they provoked the effect for the demonstration. Bloody Charlatans!

We were then shown round various houses reported to be recreations of indigenous dwellings. They were quite nicely done, but by this time we were rather giggly and couldn't resist a few daft pictures.


Possibly the most comical part came when our guide started describing the power of the guinea pig, before it became just a tasty snack to the local people. Apparently they were kept in the house to detect and absorb negative energy from the surroundings and people. This even went as far as to make them useful tools for medical diagnoses by Shamans. The guinea pig would be rubbed from head to toe very slowly over the patient. It would then be opened (her words...poor bugger), and any ailments within the person would apparently be mirrored inside the Guinea pig. This description combined with a question I proceeded to ask about checking the sex of the little things almost proved too much for Clair who had to go outside to stop herself from cracking up.


We were then shown a genuine shrunken head from an Amazonian tribe complete with tastefully drawn diagrams describing exactly how it was done (in case you wanted to try it at home maybe?). What a beauty!


Finally we got to try a genuine Amazonian blowpipe complete with possibly not so genuine native American style headdress. Clairy was sadly rubbish and could barely hold it up, let alone hit the cactus paddle target.


I however, got it on the first go and redeemed myself for the egg balancing charade. I was disappointed to say the least that they didn't give certificates for this great achievement!


A last look over this wacky but fun museum before we left.


And stunning Ecuadorian scenery as we walked back down the road.

Sunday, 1 June 2008

Quito

Oh hi! Yeah nipping right into Ecuador and off to the capital, Quito! We travelled from Pasto across the border at Ipiales to Tulcan on the Ecudorian side, then got a bus direct to Quito at the bargain price of $5 for a five hour journey. Yay!

Some amazing views from the journey as went into the Andes proper.










Volcan Imbabura above the town of La Esperanza.


After arriving in Quito we checked into the Hotel Viena International in the old town, wanting to give the new town the Mariscal Sucre a miss as this is the more touristy and backpacker place, with a higher crime rate.

We had some lovely old hand printed wallpaper in our room, but the bed was actually a real bed, and not some lame excuse for one, so we slept soo well there. This is the internal courtyard, and a cafe was next door that did super cheap Ecuadorian meals and we ate the classic menestra, rice with lentils or beans on the side, with fried plantain and any combo of meat you like.


Checking out the old town was exciting. There was a high security presence in the day and night, and we knew the dodgy areas to avoid.

The beautifully designed Fruiteria Monserrate, in the old town. Colonial on the outside, completely re-done inside. Here the locals ate amazing fruit plates with a lot of cream. The food and service were super good. It wasn't full of tourists, but looked like it would be. We frequented it for the value factor, it was so so cheap!


Wow! Check out the interior!


For a more authentic experience we visited Nuevo Cordovez for an evening meal where Wiji ate Seco de Chivo (goat stew), and there was only rice and salad for me but hey! The restaurant was tiny, had colourful booths to sit in and a lot of old bull fighting memorabilia and photos.

Just around the corner from the hotel.


The Teatro Bolivar in full working order.


The interior may have suffered from a fire at some point, but still retained real elegance and glamour.


We did a walking tour on our first day. Lucky for us it was a sunday when the roads are closed to traffic, except the electric trolley, so no fumes. This was a relief. And like sundays in all the countries we have visited, everyone is strolling around. There were street activities for children to participate in and it was chilled and pleasant.

A glimpse in the distance of the La Virgin de Quito, in a very odd, crumpled stance, Quite strange looking.


The massive crowd on the steps outside of the cathedral in the Plaza Grande were watching a puppet performance from a small tent that sounded suspiciously like Punch and Judy!! Lol, it was quite surreal, especially as it was broadcast on a massive PA.


The next three pics are looking out across the Plaza Grande from the Palacio del Gobierno... epic blue sky.






Wiji couldnt believe it when the armed guards cheerfully let us through, holding the gate open and smiling! Behind here is the actual presidents offices. We got a quick glimpse at a spectacular mural depicting Francisco de Orellana's descent of the Amazon.


Whilst gazing at all this fantastic architecture we gave ourselves a little break by visiting the Heladeria San Agustin. Here ice cream has been made since 1858 in large copper bowls by the Alvarez Andino family. They are made with fruit juice so they are more like sorbets. It was brilliant. I really enjoyed the Mora berry and Wiji went for the Taxo and Guanabana fruits. Someone was always on hand at the door to usher us in, in a mad rush!

A mind boggling facade, with some twirly columns on the Church known as La Compania de Jesus.


The Plaza San Franscisco with the Monastery of San Fransisco behind.




The historic alley of La Ronda. These colonial houses are some of the oldest in Quito. A beautifully quaint area full of families with children organising old fashioned street games for people to play...apparently rife with pick pockets.


Who would have thought that you could get banana split's all through Central and South America? Not me. This was in the lovely colonial third floor building, with a huge internal courtyard, the Cafe del Fraile.


The Monastery of San Agustin.


Very subtle tiling and beautiful balconies. The store shutters never opened below.


Not an early bedtime for these horses...but they did look well fed for a change.


One evening we decided to visit Tianguez, a cafe beneith the San Francisco Monastery to sample an Ecudorian classic called Locra de papas (a potato soap with avacodo and cheese in it) and to try the recommended drink that was delish. It was valled Canelazo and was made of aguardiente and hot fruit cider...right up our street! The church in the background is the La Compania de Jesus, Ecuador's most ornate church.


Here is a closer view of the domes.


Wiji checking out his super high bouffant morning hair-do. Nice. Wiji spent a few days doing a Spanish class in the Mariscal Sucre area, while I visited the fantastic Museo del Banco Centro and checked out their beautifully put together display of Pre-Columbian ceramics. They also had a brilliant exhibition of gold jewellery and information on the processes that they used to make it. There was also an exhibition of modern Ecudorian art. I spent a whole day enjoying it.


The 'other' hotel with the neon sign outside our window. If you look closely you can see Wiji doing the thumbs up under the sign. Wicked, we got a great view of kentucky fried chicken from there. Not half as nice as the first hotel. It was here that some kids let off a stink bomb outside our door...retro, it really stank. The door to the massive balcony let in the carbon monoxide fumes from the busy road from 5:30 onwards. And for an unknown reason the staff insisted that we get up at 8am...by knocking on our door to clean the room. NO, GO AWAY!


Despite the usual bad press about street crime that all cities in South and Central America have, we had a great time here too with no problems.