Pueblas Mancomunados Trek - Days Four & Five - Troutfish, Tremors and Thunderstorms

Oh hi! Its day four of our trek and we woke up to find ourselves super snug and totally sleepy in our lovely hostel room. We both had totally mad dreams: I had built an enormous hexagonal green house in wood and glass to house my very own Maguey... complete with an opening roof to accommodate the flower. Nice. Wij dreamt that he was taking Britney Spears through various interconnected clubs in Guilford, and showing off with fireworks, that eventually exploded in close proximity. We had various other fully barking dreams that I wont bother to go into, for everyones sake!

It was another super bright and chilly morning so off we popped back to last nights restaurant for breakfast! Scrambled eggs, black beans and rice...get in! This was a great start.


We decided to pack up our stuff and have a walk around the rest of the village and out to the mini mountain. Everyone was busy with washing, planting, fetching water and farming. This lady was feeding the hens and turkeys.


As we walked out of the village we got another amazing view across the landscape and towards Benito Juarez, where we had walked from. (Walked in circles from... haha)


We could see Eagles spiralling up in the thermals. An amazing place to be a bird! We chilled out here for a while, ate some mango's whilst being watched by some ginger goats. Random.


Oh hi! Pinky faces.


After taking in the view and thinking how amazing it all was (much pinching of oneself was done) we headed back into the village and decided to get a guide to take us the three and a half mile walk to another campsite so that we could delay going back to Oaxaca and enjoy the forests some more.

Israel was our guide, and very cheerful too. He spoke some English and had happily learnt this from volunteering as a guide. He was very proud of the village and we laughed at how totally insane Mexico city is with the six lanes of traffic and flowing crowds of people. He said that he tries to avoid going there. Even laid back Oaxaca was too fast paced for him. We could see his point.

The walk was super chilled. He took us through pine and oak forests where thick slabs of rock where being dug out to firm up some of the mud tracks. As we walked on the farm land dwindled away into tranquil forests. It was sunny and sheltered. Israel pointed out the stream and the tiny water plant that fed the village. He told us that the stream was the source of the Rio Brava The stream eventually leads all the way to Veracruz, where they had vast flooding last year as a result of the heavy rainfull in and around the area we were walking in.

Israel told us that his generation wasnt taught Zapotec at school, the language that his parents spoke as well as spanish. This had now changed again and Zapotec was now being taught from Primary school upwards, preserving their heritage.

Our walk was all down hill and took about two hours. We came to a dirt track that lead to a grassy clearing with a couple of wooden building. It was perfect, and we were the only people camping there. Israel started to chop up some wood for our fire and went off with an axe. Later he waved goodbye to us and headed off in a different direction, no mention of the fire, oh well?

We set up camp near the open wooden shelter. After we had happily fannied about sorting our stuff out and playing with it we noticed the trout farm pools. We had been promised 'Troutfish' by the Puebla Mancomunados lady in Oaxaca, when we booked the trip! A lady in a tabbard from the wooden huts approached us, and asked us if we would like 'Troutfish' (we hoped haha). She went off to get a bucket...I went with her to watch her catch them. Another lady came over and threw in some food for the fish, and the first lady pounced on them with her net, she was very quick!


Pop them in the bucket and throw back the ones that are too small.


Lovely!


A few minutes later she asked us what we would like to have with them (we thought that was what she was saying) so we said yes to everything! She returned with the fish that she had baked in the wood oven. They had been stuffed with red chillies, tomato, onion, shallots and goats cheese. It came with a salad and she gave us a bowl of herbal tea each. How brilliant!! It was delicious!


Oh hi! Ive finished mine!


After our feast we headed up the track to walk around the campsite, here's our little beast of a tent, the trout farm and the wooden buildings. The two ladies locked the wooden buildings and went off through the forest. They left two dogs tied up by the building. Bye.


Oh hi! Just taking it easy with a can. What handy thermarest seats!


On later inspection we saw that Israel had set up a massive fire in the open shelter. We were a bit baffled and felt sure that the large pile of logs he had left would cause the shelter to burn down. Wij took it apart and rebuilt it-he love doing this!


We kept the fire going nicely, you can see the tent in the background.


Oooh cosy! Just after this, lightning lit up the mountain range in an increasingly closer strobe effect. Oh dear. Glad we pitched the tent near the shelter. Mmmm, that's why the fire is put under the shelter... cheers Israel! We stayed under here and watched the landscape illuminated by bright flashes...spooky and exciting. Wij made a cuppa and the heavens opened. We decided to bring the rucksacks in with us, (as the tent is too small to have them inside)-good move it really pelted down for ages! No worries- we had another cuppa! And another.

We didn't mention to each other the loud crashing noises that were randomly coming from the forest behind us- (probably pine cones?) It was spooky. We had to keep changing seats (logs) as the wind was continually changing, but we were super cosy chilling with our teas and looking at the embers-lush

Eventually it did stop raining and the dogs gave up barking. The moon came out in a low crescent. A really clear bright moon and a chilly night. We were super organised this time and when we finally left the dwindling fire we were ready for bed and warm. Through the night we heard some more rain and the dogs barking a bit, but we were super cosy and we made the tent smell of bonfire...night then.


Oh hi! Its not over yet! Its day five.

I woke up because I was being shaken awake, Wij sat bolt up right in his mummy sleeping bag as the ground shook beneath us! It was a tremor! How mad...we sat and lay there in silence in the morning light inside our tiny beast feeling the ground shaking...then it stopped. Total silence. I went for a wee, and Wij went back to sleep. Later we had to check with each other that it really happened. (Cheers Dan for confirming it! A minor earthquake all the way away in Mexico City!) Glad that we were in the forest and not in Oaxaca, it seemed less threatening. What an experience?!

This didn´t put us off at all, we totally chilled the day away enjoying the scenery, watching the eagles and Wiji did some food on the stove. (Its still a novelty) I was allowed to wash up in the stream...cool. Here he is chopping up some garlic. 'Cook little pot cook!'


We packed our stuff up later in the afternoon and headed off up hill all the way. Here we are with our packs and new Mexican hats LMAO!


Here's the illusive sign that we couldn't find after leaving Benito Juarez- oh well it was our first go! Funny how none of the signs tell you how far you have left to go! They are making it all up we reckon!


We chilled out in the centre of the village and waited for the chicken bus back to Oaxaca. We waited and waited...alone... a bad sign...I fell asleep on my bag (not the done thing). Finally it turned up! Yay! Everyone got off and the driver had his dinner, (anti-climax) then finally we headed off to Oaxaca and the wonderful Paulina hostel. We were very sad to leave this truly beautiful place.

A sunset over the mini mountain.


The bus driver turned out the lights in the bus as the sun set and proceded to drive like the devil mentally fast down hill on the gravel roads, with a precipis on one side. Fucking hell- it was scary! I decided to shut my eyes. Wij insisted he thought the brakes were good and the driver was good to go...it nearly made me pray, but obviously not quite ha ha! As we got down nearer Oaxaca the driver began to use his American air horn that was suspended on a string in front of his windscreen. He did this by pulling on a stuffed donkey hoof...nice touch, yeah nice! That was hilarious... and back we came to traffic filled Oaxaca and a much warmer climate below the mountains...

Bye cloud forest adventure.

Pueblas Mancomunados Trek - Day Three - Getting to Know Cuijimoloyas

Oh Hi! I thought that I would take this Blog lark a bit more seriously and continue where Wij left off and write about day three of our cloud forest trek.

After a busy night of howling wind and noisy coyote's, I was still awake to see the sun come up. The combination of high altitude and exposed camping area meant it was a very cold morning. I had slept in all my clothes, fleece, waterproof jacket and sleeping bag, so getting out of the tent to go for a wee in the field was an olympic effort of zip opening.

Our rubbish bag had gone from inside the tent door, which must have been the Coyote that I heard near my head in the night making snuffling noises. All the bulls were still tethered to sticks across the field still. A goatherder was making his way up the hill with six goats all on leads attatched to his waist. He stopped to tell us, in a really good humoured and friendly way, that we had chosen a really windy place to camp, and pointed out several other options through mime and kept saying 'Frio' meaning cold. Even he looked cold! It was a shame that our guide had supervised our camping site. The morning air was really icy and bright, making my eyes water.

Here I am in/out the tent fully wrapped up.


Check out Wiji smiling away, the sun was fully out by now and the wind had started to drop.


Near the tent was a few wooden sheds and fenced areas for the bulls. This one was watching me from the Maguey hedge. I got closer, he got closer, I got closer... took a piccy and backed off.

Oh Hi!


Wij made a cuppa on the stove, we ate some weird breakfast bars, chocolate milk and some tortillas with some edam like cheese and tomatoes. Two brothers were making their way up the dirt track from the village with a donkey and fole. We had seen them last evening and knew that they were about to go and collect fire wood. They were happy to wave at us and sneek a peek at what we were doing through the Maguey hedge. They were vaguely interested in us packing up the tent, watching from on top of the feed sacks, jumping off and hiding when I looked over. They eventually wandered up the slope having a cheerful stick fight, donkeys in tow. It was a really funny sight.


We packed up the tent and began to walk down to the village. The path was lined with Maguey (Agave) plants that make really effective hedging. Later in the day we leant form our guide Ben Himim that the Maguey takes 100 years to grow to maturity, at which point it then has an enormous flower stem. Then beautiful pom pom like succulent flowers, that are red ochre and butter yellow in colour slowly open. Here is Wij next to one to give it some scale.


Here is one that has flowered and is dying. The colours are stunning. I have only ever seen these at this scale in Kew gardens. They are fascinating and I could not get enough of them!


Walking down the track for half an hour or so into the village was breathtaking. Epic blue skys and low rolling fluffy clouds. Everything was so eye wateringly bright and fresh-still chilly as! We were greeted by villagers in their gardens and on the track with smiles and hello's.


Check out they sky over Cuijimoloyas and the cloud forests!


Cuajimoloyas sits at 3180 meters. It is a rural Zapotec village. The land is divided up in a modest manner. Families farm, using bulls to plough the slopes so that they can plant potatoes. Families are only allowed four bulls each because there is not the resources to feed more. Many of the houses are without running water or electricity. And over the course of our stay, the dirt roads were being dug up by hand to make way for water pipes. We saw lots of girls and women lugging plastic buckets up the hills to their homes, some using wheel barrows.

The houses that you can see are constructed of mud and straw bricks. Lots of people had flattened pieces of tin, from tin cans, to cover walls or to make up the space with corrigated iron roofing. Some families had used cement, steel and brick, few had houses that were painted or more that one story high. Here you can see part of the village and some ploughed land. In the background a mini mountain on the mountain!


We made our way back to the 'tourist office', opposite being a small hostel. We checked in for a much needed shower. There was hot water in the shared single shower room- a single person size concrete room, it was fantastic! We got the pick of the rooms, choosing the one with curtains and no bunk beds! What a cute little room. The metal door added a constant draft, but it was a quick invigorating skip from the welcome shower. Even Ray Mears was excited by the novelty of the pillows.

Oh hi!


The view from our hostel window.


After our showers we decided to get a guide to do a three or four hour walk. Looking at some images in the 'tourist office' I chose the Gorge walk. It looked nice, little did I know...

We hooked up with our guide Benjamin, a local who is a similar age, and Chris an American, (same age) who was visiting some of his students, who had returned to Mexico, from the dairy farm he works at in Vermont.

We had some interesting conversations with him about immigration and migrant workers in our countries. Chris translated and taught English to the Mexican workers and assisted them with social and medical issues-the workers havng no rights or representation in America. He was a very conscientious person it seemed.

Chris was happy to be our translater on the walk. Our guide Ben, described to us through Chris, the Zapotec uses for many plants. This was brilliant and we made a gentle pace through the slopes and valleys away from the village happily chatting. Our guide had made these journeys as a child when he was a goat herder, and really enjoyed being a guide. He took us up futher into the mountains and to the Gorge. The Gorge, being of course, nothing like the photos (how?) but a very steep climb of no return. 'No I can't really turn around and look down, I may fall off!'

It was a bit 'Flash Gorden' (with Peter Dunken). We had to put or hands into these holes of slimy mulch and the unknown, to pull ourselves up. Doesn't look high up here, does it?


I am loving it! It does look high here, see the trees in the background?


This is the view at the top of the Gorge... more sheer rock face. Yikes! Wij went off with Ben and Chris to climb this. (I had a Billy Elliot moment as you can imagine Fenner and Adam!)


This is the View from the top of that rock that Wij took. Wow!x He also took some 360 degree shots.

Oh hi! Here I am, as in Teotihuacan, firmly on the ground, but at 3180 meters! I was sat right on the edge of where the Gorge fell away below my feet.


An 'Air plant' that grows like an Orchid in a tree, collecting moisture on its leaves and anchoring itself to the branch with its roots. I was super excited when I spotted these on the windy bus journey to Benito Juarez. This one I spotted on the walk, flower un all! I felt like Margaret Mee!


This was another view, and another rock for Wij to climb.


And when Wij got to the top of the rock in the previous shot, here's what he saw!


I was pleased I managed to avoid joining the others 'free climb'... untill I realised that I had join them on the next rock face to get to the next bit of the path. Who let me choose the walk?!

We had to climb a very steep slope that curved around on a knife edge path. (ideal). Then at the top of the path was a rock that we had to climb over, about head height for Wij. Joy! Over the other side was a sheer drop. We had to sit astride the rock, shuffle along and then scale down a very 'bush craft' ladder that the real Ray Mears would NOT have put his name to! I tried really hard not to go into sheer terror freeze mode (after that comes I want to throw myself off mode)... and managed it. Well done. Chris and Wij thought this was quite hardcore for them too. Especially Chris, who also agreed that if he was up too high, he feels like jumping off. Mmmm. Ben pointed out that before tourist walked the paths, Eagles used to nest where we had just been. Aaahh ha ha, nervous laugh. That really does indicate, I think, how high we were!

After this it was more chilled strolling up hill and through some farmed land. Lots of yellow tiny finches could be seen flying out of the Maguey ahead of us. We also saw the Mexican blue Jay. Super blue! Wherever we went in and around Cuajimoloyas, you could here the sound of a donkey braying. Strangely both sorrowful and hilarious at the same time! Ben walked us back to the village were Chris was gong to stay with an older local couple in return for helping them plant potatoes the next day. We went back to hostel and collapsed!

Later we went into the centre of the village to look for a hot meal. There were a few open doorways with the smell of cooking. It was early evening and the skys were both Rococo pink in fluffyness, and biblical in proportions. We came apon this restaurant. (Photographed the next day).


It was totally empty apart from a lady who was cooking at a wood stove, and her two small children who eyed us with fascination. We didn't have the Spanish and she had no English. She was very warm and welcoming in her manner and promptly showed us three dishes: meatballs in tomato sauce, a chicken leg in broth and a sweet pepper with goat cheese stuffing. We jumped on these!! She had to prise them off us to heat them up, that was quite amusing for us all! She returned with these, and really tasty rice and blackbeans. It was amazing, homecooked and delicious. I had hot chocolate with water that tasted like Green and Blacks Mayan Gold. We also had some Corona's... naturally. When we had finished it was only eight o'clock ish, we were both yawning and off after many thanks and smiles into the freezing evening air, a walk up the hill and back to the hostel. (Pillows!)

What a brilliant day!

Pueblos Mancomunados Trek - Day Two - Benito Juarez to Cuijimoloyas

So we'd packed all our stuff up and with a spring in our step, headed off to the tourist info office, where the nice chap who spoke english was going to advise us where the trail we were going to be following for the day started. He was suitably chirpy, and seemed totally confident of our ability to not only carry the packs we'd got strapped on, but also to find our way.

His directions for our 4.1 mile walk consisted of 'Go through the forest. Head down to the river, and up the other side. Head for a big rock. Then, you'll see the village up the hill and you're there. There are signposts every 200 yards or so'. It all sounded so easy.

So much so, that instead of taking us up to the start of the trail himself, he grabbed a passing villager, a rather sultry dusty chap in his mid twenties in baseball cap and well worn Frannypants (old tracky bottoms) and let us be on our way.

It didn't take very long for us to realise that the altitude, combined with the weight we were carrying and our total lack of fitness was going to be a problem. Barely 10 minutes in and we were making excuses to our 'guide' about taking photos so we could have a breather. Here´s a couple of the results. You can see the landscape is pretty rugged.


The village of Benito Juarez.


So on we continued on the dusty track with our 'guide', before he eventually waved in the vague direction of small path heading in to the forest. Again our total lack of Spanish probably didn't help, but he definitely said the name of the village we were headed to, and it wasn't like we had any real choice but to follow his direction, so he buggered off to wherever he was heading and left us to it.

Within 5 minutes of entering the forest the path split, and having seen no signs at all we decided to head downwards as that seemed like the general direction. Eventually we came to stream, which I assured myself must have been the river mentioned earlier by our helpful host. The path, however, got smaller and smaller, until it came out onto a small deforested area. There was no real sign of the path continuing, but it had been an extremely steep decent, and we didn't fancy backtracking, so we went with what looked like the most likely option.

By this point, the weight of our packs was a real problem, we just had far too much stuff, and as I coaxed Clair on through what we eventually decided was probably a coyote path things were looking pretty bleak. Finally the path was gone altogether and we were on a near vertical slope hopelessly lost in the forest.

Here´s a piccy of the 'path'.


We took our packs off and I scampered off to try and find a route. Unbelievably, I stumbled across the actual path we supposed to be on! Multiple signposts and everything. We had to climb over vast fallen pines and dense thickets to get there, but eventually we were actually on the path.

Unfortunately, it had taken us nearly 2 hours to get there. We were absolutley knackered, and the first signpost said we were only 1km from where we were supposed to have started. Bugger! Also, beautiful as the scenery was it was one severely steep climb and descent followed by another.

An example:


Zoomed in a bit closer, I was sure I could make out a village there somewhere.


I was wrong it turned out. We were still miles away. Here's me with a slightly strained expression on my face.


And me trying to encourage a seriously flagging poor Clairy by stomping on ahead. It was downhill so I could just about do that at this point.


Anyway, we lost the trail about 5 more times, and the 4.1 mile walk must have ended up closer to 8 or 9 miles with the backtracking and totally wrong paths we took, but eventually we found a track, and a wrinkly old farmer who found our appearance extremely comical, informed us it did lead to Cuajimoloyas. It was in no way the route we supposed to be taking, it wound on forever, but finally, we saw the sight we were looking for.

The big rock with an aerial on top that indicated we were at Cuajimiloyos.


So we left at 10:30 and arrived at 5:30, and our guidebook had informed us it was a 3 hour walk. So we at last doubled it, pretty impressive I reckon. In the end, we learned a valuable lesson about what we could realistically carry, and also that their signage was rubbish. It was still a stunningly beautiful walk, it just nearly killed us.

Once there we asked for a place to camp and the tourist information graciously lent us the use of Allejandro, another cheerful guide, to take us to our camp spot (a very exposed field with 4 bulls tied to spindley little sticks, a mere 20 minute walk from the village, but that was nearly too much for us) and make us a fire. By this point it was getting dark, we were seriously pooped and a freezing cold wind had picked up. I attempted to knock up some tuna pasta while Clair put every single item of clothing on and zipped herself into her sleeping bag.

After wolfing down our grub (he happily had some too) our guide departed leaving us with a small fire which now seemed perilously close to our tent. Especially as the wind direction was now blowing the embers directly towards it.

Eventually we admitted defeat. I stomped it out (only slightly singeing my walking boots) and we bedded down. The wind got stronger and stronger, and I awoke in the night to the sound of our rubbish being snaffled by something. Whatever it was spent quite some time huffing and puffing beside us. It was genuinely quite freaky, particularly as the lonely planet cheerfully lists that the area contains all 7 of Mexico's wildcats plus many other large predators. In the end we decided it was almost certainly a coyote, and would have been more scared of us had we confronted it.

All in all it was a pretty full on first day's trekking.

Pueblos Mancomunados Trek - Day One - Benito Juarez

Hi all. Thanks everyone for all your comments. Its great to think that people are actually having a look at what were sticking up here. Although both of us seem to be enjoying writing this quite a bit more than we imagined.

So our plans are currently pretty reliant on the lonely planet for suggestions for places to go and things to do, apart from the occasional idea from the nice people we have come across. Fortunately, whilst having a look at the possibilities around the gorgeous little city of Oaxaca where we were currently residing we came across this ecotourism project called the Pueblos Mancomunados - Its a collection of 8 villages up in the Valles Centralles, some vast mountains to the north west, that have worked together to achieve various goals for years. They've recently set up a set of trails for walking and mountain biking, so that others can come and appreciate the stunning scenery.

It sounded just about ideal, and there is an office in Oaxaca where we got to chat to a nice lady who spoke very little english about what we would like to do. We paid her the the park entrance fee and she let us know where we needed to get to hop on the bus to get to the first village called Benito Juarez.

Now this was the first time we were going to get our camping stuff out, so being rather over excited we packed up 6 litres of water (just in case we got lost - kind of sensible and yet not, it turned out) a vast amount of food, all our camping gear, a minimum of clothing and stashed the few items that we didn't need at the hostel we'd been staying at. Our bags did seem rather heavy, but our enthusiasm was so vast, we were sure it would not be a problem to cover the mere 4.1 miles we'd planned for the first days walking.

The lonely planet suggested SPF30 suncream, hats and sunglasses were essential due to the altitude. the first village we were staying at was 3200m above sea level. Here's a little piccy of me getting into into the spirit, shortly after purchasing said items.


The 2nd class (read chicken) bus ride up to Benito Juarez was genuinely amazing. Just a few miles out of Oaxaca and we were on a dirt road heading up a very steep massively pot-holed dirt road at an impressive speed.

Here´s a picture of the inside of the bus (it was a bit much even for the image stabilization of our nice little camera).


The view just got more and more amazing as we went up

Me looking out the window. God what fine features.


We arrived at the village and the bus made numerous stops dropping off various supplies on the way, and ours was the final stop. We hopped off and the bus drove away, fortunately for us revealing the tourist information hut full of exceptionally helpful guides, one of whom was well chuffed to be able to practice his immaculate english on us.

They showed us to our nice little camp space, and proceeded to knock us up a ludicrously huge bonfire. I have to say Í´d been looking forward to a fire since we´d first started getting our camping stuff together, and this beast did not disappoint.

Check it out!


There were also a couple of neatly chopped up logs idealy suited to our respective bum sizes. It really was an extremely easy first introduction to camping. Note the vast mugs of Clipper fair trade tea behind Clair, a very sensible addition to our vast backpacks!


We both slept pretty darn well on our super comfy thermarests, and here I am packing up ready for our first bit of trekking (Note vast fire still smoking)


Just as we were ready to set off, a tiny emerald green humming bird popped up in front of us. I've never seen a non stuffed one before and it was bloody incredible. We felt it had to be a good omen for the day to come......unfortunately, we were wrong. But you´ll have to tune it again to find out exactly why that was.

Thats all for now....xx

Baby Jesus Dollies - Updated

Oh hi! This first started in Mexico city, rushing through the crowds I caught a glimps of a girl holding a dolly that looked more religious icon than Tiny Tears. Shocker, there were more. Loads of girls and women were carrying their very own baby Jesus dollies!

Jesus dollies seem to come in three sizes, a pocket more discrete version, could be a big key ring. Medium...woops I have left the house with this and don't have my hands free to carry much else. Large, your average six month old baby, but made of wood, massive eyelashes, dewey eyes, rosebud lips, and make-up counter girl drawn in eye brows.

To top it off the baby Jesus dolly, (only one model) is slightly animated as though a real baby in your arms, legs and arm in motion. Or if held upright looks like it is running in mid air, but can also be posed in a chair. F-R-E-A-K-Y-!

Mexico City market. Jesus fashion show.


Oaxaca market. Jesus baby, Jesus Doctor, Jesus Fisherman, Jesus fucking christ! Sadly I was unable to photograph the Jesus accessory cabinet below (busy stall). This contained tiny leather sandals, china Doves, red hearts with gold daggers through and other religious stuff for Jesus dolly to hold.


In Puebla particularly, lots of women carried the Jesus dolly in its own chair or cradle. You could also buy a six foot wooden Christ for three hundred and twenty five quid-complete with El Greco flowing wooden white robe and Madonna 'Like a prayer' Jesus weepy eyes. LMAO that would have been sooo wicked in my next bathroom! Check out this whole shop of icon madness!


Jesus dollies sealed for freshness.


Jesus dollies in costumes. How about Christ on a bike?


Jesus dolly and changing matt gift set. What?!


Oh, has an electric lamp feature. Nice bedside table Jesus.


In Oaxaca there is a stall were you can buy your own Jesus dolly and then dress it in an outfit of your choice...(dream sequence).

With each ringing chime of the Cathedral bell say it with me... WRONG!...WRONG!...WRONG!