Colac Bay to the Catlins

Oh hi! After finishing the Hump Ridge Track we headed straight to the Colac Bay Tavern, where we were welcomed back by Faye (from the bar) who found it very funny that we were hobbling around. We were both in much need of showers and had to clean our boots and re-pack the whole car. We also did a mass of clothes washing. The meant that when we finally got into the pub, later that evening, we were wearing what was left of our clothes and that was unfortunately brightly coloured beachwear.

As we approached the Tavern we noticed that the car park was full of pic-up trucks and dogs running around, there was also a multitude of wellies abandoned by the door. It was a Friday night and the pub was packed. It felt as though everyone stopped shouting (Kiwi chatting) to turn around momentarily and stare at us. We totally stuck out from the locals, who were mainly men in very short (franny pants style) shorts and big wooly socks...quality moments...

We had a celebratory meal of blue cod and chips in the pub and drank the night away whilst chatting to some local farmers from Gore. They later invited us to come out the next morning at 6am on a fishing trip with them. They were sure that even though Wiji hadn't got a PADI licence, he would be fine to dive with them for crayfish. When I questioned them about how they were going to catch the crayfish, they explained that they were going to just grab them in the water. Lol. So we arrange to meet in the car park the next morning. They, of course were driving and managed to stumble out of the pub and presumably drive home.

The windswept trees on the road to Colac Bay.


Colac Bay, the backpackers and Tavern with nice fibre glass surfer.


Whilst sorting out all our stuff and taking it in turns to use the showers we bumped into a local man coming out of the men's toilets. He was wearing a vest that sagged and exposed both his nipples at once, very unfortunate. He happily informed us that he had blocked the toilet. We later saw him coming and going from the caravan that he probably lived in. This was his Ute.


We didn't catch our lift for the fishing trip, and when we did wake up we found we were quite stiff and slow going to start with, lol. We started the day by feeding the hens. It was whilst doing this that John turned up with his brother (the farming fishermen from the night before), to say sorry that they did not show. John said that the current/wind /tide was too strong (nothing to do with massive hangovers, oh no!) We were really touched that they had turned up an thanked them for a great night, and declined their other offer of paua fishing trip instead and said our goodbyes.

Run Chicky, Run! Silly Silky is always behind...


Wiji feeding the Rasta goat that threw itself at the fence, but could not really see past its long fringe. It just stood still waggling its tongue out of its mouth for the bread.




Silly Silky hen, always at the back and always a bit too slow, even when we did specifically throw bread at it, yes, at it!


Inside/out the backpackers. A great place to stay and great memories too.


After breakfast we decided to head off to Riverton and check out the Paua shell shop. Wayne the owner was on hand to talk us through the many shells on display and we selected one from Providence Rock in the very south west tip of NZ Fiordland. The shell still had parts of its rough outer shell exposed as well as the rainbow of colours underneath. Wayne, a true Kiwi, had always eaten paua, and regaled us with stories of is his boyhood, diving for paua and cooking them on a beach fire in the shell. He had enormous rough hands and said that he had always worked with paua. He was happy to give us some top tips for our journey too.

Another day in NZ, another giant fibre glass monument. It was quite fitting that while having my piccy taken here all the fishing lads from the night before drove passed tooting and waving. Lol.

Riverton Paua.


We drove on through flat and windy Invercargill and on Eastwards to Curio Bay, approaching it from the more scenic dirt road that Wayne had suggested. Curio Bay being one of his family haunts.

We booked ourselves into the Dolphin backpackers at Curio Bay. It seemed to be partially run by sulky teenage travellers who preferred to be sprawled on the old sofas than being helpful. Lol. This did however, mean that we were just down the road from the viewing point at Curio Bay, where an hour or so before sunset the yellow eyed penguin would come ashore. We cooked a curry and then headed off. We were lucky enough to arrive at the same time as some middle aged British twitchers who were more than happy to let us have a look through there bins! Excellent! We all excitedly watched the lone penguin do very little for quite some time...

There it is on the rocks!


Every time I tried to take a pic it turned its head, making it actually look headless! Lol.


Looking across Curio Bay and frantically scanning for yellow eyed penguins, as the wind whipped around us and even Wiji was cold.


Yes, a headless yellow eyed penguin! Oh yes, very rare indeed!


The rocky inlet at Curio Bay that was awash with long rubbery strands of kelp. And below in the foreground a lone sea lion.


The lone penguin suddenly picked up speed and decided to get back in the sea! All eyes were on it. I managed to take a pic just as it looked down before jumping in...yes it still looks headless! Then that was it, we swapped wildlife sightings with the British twitchers (who had also been to Galapagos, lol) and then called it a night.


The next morning, when the tide was out and penguins weren't waiting to come ashore, I went down to Curio Bay to check out the petrified forest.


Fossilised Jurassic age trees.




When I was spotted by an oyster catcher I new my time was up and left the beach to avoid being dive bombed.


We drove on through the Catlins to McLean Falls. The walk to the falls signposted native trees, and here we came across the Manuka tree, below in silhouette on what was quite a grey day. Its flowers were very much like may blossom.


Walking through the Rimu tree forest...


To the McLean Falls....


We loved the stepped cascade of water, it made the actual gushing torrent seem more refined!


The smaller falls at the bottom.


Back at the car park, some older British walkers shouted to us 'Is it worth it?' We found that quite funny. If we had said no they would have probs got back in their cars!

We motored on to Papatowai and stopped at the Lost Gypsy Gallery that was in fact a bus by the side of the road. In the drive way was an excellent post box constructed out of corrugated iron. 'Whale mail'.


The gallery itself.




Of course I did press this button! I got squirted with water from what I later identified as the rubber face of Margaret Thatcher.


Inside the bus where many automata experiments by artist Blair Sommerville. It was all very interactive, imaginative and hilarious.

A sign for the staff room door, or indeed any dull meeting room perhaps?


Inside the bus, every surface was occupied. Blair told us that he used to be a ceramicist but also loved fiddling with things and making things move. He had always lived in the area and now managed to make a living from the gallery that also showcased his friends work too.


The bullet cases and flower lights...


A short vid of Wiji winding of a piece of road kill automata...


After a good look around and much laughing out loud, we purchased one of his ingenious 'Southern Gurgles'.

We drove on and headed north of Owaka to Nugget Bay. It was blowing a massive hoolie. As we parked up at the first view point and a man banged on our window and advised us to reverse the car so that when we got out the doors would not blow off! It was certainly funny watching him try to hold the door open as the wind forced it shut while his wife was trying to leave the camper van, LOL.

We drove off laughing up to the higher vantage point as Wiji was still keen to walk along the precarious coast past to the light house. I took my turn at staying in the car and watched the hilarious sight of parents dragging toddlers by the hands like kites off around the exposed ridge pathway.

Lovely pics of his walk... The knife edge...


No horizontally flying toddlers here, sadly.


The Nuggets and proof that the earth really is round, lol.


Down below, elephant seals...maybe?




A lovely day for it! It was actually. After Wiji had a look around we drove off around the coast and got great views of the huge waves crashing on the shore in the distance.


An elephant seal perhaps, or maybe just a sea lion?




Back down on the coast road and an 'after I've eaten it' paua letter box display.