We figured we might as well drive up to the Frans Josef glacier face first though and take a few snaps, before continuing on to Fox. Before we could get there however, we were directed on by a cheerful chap who informed us there had been a landslide due to the huge rains of the previous night and the road to the Frans Josef glacier would not be open for at least 3 to 4 hours. Ah well, on to Fox!
When we arrived at the town near the Fox glacier, the rain had stopped and the sun was beginning to shine. Fearing that we wouldn't get to see much if it was chucking it down, we swiftly booked ourselves on the next half day hike that was due to leave in just 10 minutes time. We just had enough time to peg it back to the car and get our waterproofs out, but unfortunately didn't get round to swapping our heavy jeans for the infinitely more sensible lightweight walking trousers that we had purchased in Auckland.
We were introduced to our young guide Paul who supervised our group of about 10 getting the equipment we needed. We all had to hand in our shoes/boots and were handed a pair of mighty stiff leather walking boots. Mine looked like they hadn't actually been worn before and I was a bit concerned about their blistering potential. We were also given a set of instep crampons which we would don when we reached the glacier.
When we arrived at the glacier car park, Paul pointed us to the river that exits the glacier at its terminal face. There were large chunks of ice being washed downstream due to the rain mentioned earlier.
Me, with humongously uncomfortable footwear, heading toward the beast for our 4 hour walk.
Initially we followed the track that everyone heads out on to view the glacier terminal face.
But quite soon we left the track and were scrambling over big rocks and small rivers to get to the bottom of the glacier.
The valley all around the glacier was surprisingly green.
Eventually we reached the bottom, and looked up at its 150m face. It was amazing to see how it picks up the rubble as it drives forward and literally gouges out rocks on either side. Fox glacier is one of a handful of glaciers in the worlds that are increasing in size. This is due to higher temperatures in Australia across the Tasman Sea which result in hot moist air travelling across to New Zealand and turning into masses of snow when it is pushed up into the heights of the Southern Alps. The snow is just keeps piling on top of itself and eventually forms the glacier.
By this point it was absolutely chucking it down and we were both soaked through. The temperature wasn't as low as I'd thought it would be being near all that ice, but the wind was blowing and it felt very chilly. It was only the clambering over rocks that was keeping us toasty. My idea of getting up there as fast as possible while it was still sunny was quickly identified as ludicrous when Paul informed us that at the bottom of the glacier they get an average of 15 metres of rain a year. It's pretty much always raining!
We then started our accent up the side of the glacier through fern and moss filled rainforest. The path had been carefully built by the glacier guide company, and they had recently had to build it all again after a landslide took the old path with it. The new path had 732 steps! I stopped to get a much needed drink from this pure alpine stream.
Just before this next picture Paul had stopped us all and informed us that for the next 50 metres or so we had to keep a brisk pace no matter what. Apparently some rocks above were known to be quite unstable. He therefore went ahead and waited whilst looking at a tiny machine connected to the mountainside that notified him if anything was falling from above so he could tell us to leg it. It was all quite exciting, and also exposed some slightly outrageous behaviour from the middle-aged German ladies who elbowed past me, nearly knocking me off the mountain side, without a backward glance.
Poor Clairy had been warned that some sections of the path were going to be rather high. The part shown below actually began by climbing up a (very cheap B&Q looking) ladder, before clambering along a ledge with a 150 metre sheer drop off one side where you had to keep at least one hand on a chain at all times. Needless to say we didn't stop to take too many piccies, but I was really proud of Clairy for doing it.
Phew...finally at the top of the steps. The faster group in front of us make it on to the glacier.
We stopped to grab a walking stick with a pointy metal end each, handily left there for us, and to attach our crampons before making our way onto the ice. Paul had told us that it was only 1 or 2 degrees colder on the ice than outside of it, but it felt bloody freezing. I think the wind had increased, and our ludicrous jeans were totally soaked through and heavy by this point, so that definitely didn't help, but I think it was also due to the slower progress whilst on the ice, endlessly having to wait for slow coaches in the group to catch up. Clairy actually did really well once she realised she could trust the crampons and wouldn't slip over and water slide it all the way back to the bus.
It was quite an eery feeling clambering about on it. A path had been prepared for us with steps cut in. We were warned to keep to it because of the dangers of falling down a crevasse.
Clairy was pretty excited to have made it.
'Oh hi! Can I come and sit by your nice warm fire now...'
Glacier conquered by fat man.
I'm not sure if it was the early signs of hypothermia, but things just got sillier.
Climaxing with Clair's Jane Torvil impression.
Glacier-induced hysteria.
After about half an hour (quite enough time for us), we headed back the way we had came.
Not before taking a few more snaps mind.
Nice icing sugar snow dusting up top.
And rivers streaming down the mountain side.
The path with carved steps to the left.
Even though there was a lot of shale and stone about the ice had a beautiful blue hue to it.
A deep crevasse.
Nice textured bits.
Don't slip down there.
We asked a ginger American if he'd take one of both of us and he kindly agreed. I gave him a chunk of my fruit and nut in return and he seemed surprisingly pleased with the deal.
On the way back down the rain cleared a little revealing more of the ice-carved valley.
The glacier stretches for more than 17km up into the mountain.
Awesome glacier!
The valley floor.
Clairy spotted some of her favourite tree ferns known as Punga in New Zealand on the way down.
And lots of mossy gorgeousness.
Oh fuck yeah.
Woot and Yay...finally made it down.
And low and behold, once we were down, there was even a bit of blue sky.
It was a great experience and I'm really glad we both did it.
Soggy boy.
I loved the almost vertical valley sides.
Some more of us...
When we got back to the car park we were greeted by the amazing site of a pair of Kea's, the world's only alpine parrot. They are now protected in NZ, but that doesn't mean they're not right mischevious beasts. We saw one happily walking over a car with its big scratchy claws, but they are also known for shredding pretty much anything they can on cars, door seals, windscreen wipers, aerials, even biting through tyre valves! They are top notch ice climbers as well according to Paul and are able to climb a vertical ice face with their sharp talons.
They really are quite amazing things, and it was a great way to round off our glacier trip.
1 comment:
What another amazing experience, although soggy denim made us feel a bit uncomfortable. Nice to see the parrot too xx
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