Unfortunately this was a bad choice on my part as Kerala man wasn't the least harmless of the pack and used the rest of the journey to repeatedly bump into me while I was laying on my bunk, as well as sitting on my bunk and staring at me, even though I was completely covered from head to toe in my 'sheetty-bag' and clothing. I felt that my combined requests for him to move and death stares gave a clear message, he however, was undeterred so I eventually shouted at him and physically kicked him. He wasn't bothered in the slightest, and I wished that I had kicked him much harder just for the pure satisfaction of it.
When we arrived in Jaisalmer at 5am, neither of us had gotten much sleep. I was grumpy as hell and the majority of the rickshaws had left with the passengers who had got off the train promptly. The train station looked like any other, and was full of people sleeping on the floor like the relief area of a disaster zone. Luckily our host PK was still waiting for us and managed to flag down another rickshaw after a bit. PK had decided to collect us from the station because of the Hoil-festival. As we travelled through the streets in darkness various random fires were burning in the middle of the roads and the streets were full of men. We could only imagine the full-on carnage in Jodphur!
On arrival, PK gave us the choice of two rooms in his heritage home and kindly left us to it. We opted for the interior room that was much quieter, and fell asleep for a good few hours. Later Wiji checked out the roof terrace and once I had managed to wake up we had breakfast with the most amazing view...
A superb photo by the Wiji from our guest house roof top, looking over Jaisalmer to the fort.
PK advised us that it wasn't really safe for us to venture out until after 4pm as the Holi-festival was still in full swing. The festival seemed to consist of men and boys pelting each other with red, yellow, orange, blue and purple powders. From above we could see several men running and shouting at each other through the lanes, who were covered head to toe in dry powder pigment. We could also see women looking down at the carnage from the safety of the rooftops. PK's son, who served us breakfast, told us that he would not go out either. He did seem to have a perpetually nervous disposition. PK cheerfully assured us that we would certainly get the full treatment if we did go out. No matter as were were both shattered and happy to chill in our room for a bit longer.
We recalled the time in Hampi when a man at one of the temples put a red powder bindi spot on Wiji's head and it stained his forehead pink, and I didn't fancy job hunting with rainbow hair. I could not help but think of the stories that my driving instructor had told me.
Before he gave driving lessons he used to work at an abattoir, slicing up cuts of meat wearing chain mail gloves. Apparently there were several 'traditions' in the abattoir, one of which was if a man was getting married then the rest of the men would dunk the groom-to-be in the purple dye that was used to stamp carcasses of meat. The dye would not wash off for months and the poor groom would be purple on his wedding night, a bit like Krishna. My driving instructor escaped this by hiding in a wheely bin of dirty overalls and was smuggled out. Aaah, we used to have some great chats in his Nissan Micra while I was learning to drive. Some of the stories were fully gruesome. The narration alone was well worth the ten pounds an hour, never mind the lesson. Sometimes we ran out of time and the story had to be continued, LOL... The abattoir driving instructor and the vegetarian learner, unlikely, but happy companions. I did pass first time.
We ventured out well after 4pm and the streets seemed silent. PK assured us that people would have gone for a shower and then a family picnic, lol...we were dubious...
Bar a few rainbow coloured young men going two's up on scooters, the coast was actually clear...
'Oooooh is it safe to come out yet?'
A long train journey and far too much time indoors had taken its toll. The old beardo was coming on a treat though! We had dinner on the roof at the Saffron restaurant, part of the Nanchana Haveli. This gave us a full view of Ghandi Chowk in all its rainbow glory. Our friendly waiters all had a very bright pink glow about their khaki uniforms, which was quite amusing too.
The next morning we surveyed the lay of the land outside our guest house...
Early morning doogie snoozing. The middle one got the poor deal, shame.
A calf mistook Wiji's leg for a scooter and gave its head a good old rub on his knee! Lmao! Everyone was a winner here!
A collection of stray animals gather around one of the many pits in the road that were piled high, (the previous night), with discs of cow dung and teepees of whittled white sticks with red stripes, set ablaze.
A lot of stones blocking the front window of this haveli, in the morning sunshine...
The impressive Nathmal-Ki-Haveli, that we didn't view the interior of, but that we passed on our daily route to the centre of things.
The Maharaja's Palace in Jaisalmer fort. Two women in the foreground instantly came running towards me with arms outstretched holding anklets of bells. We made a run for it.
One of a series of massive gated entrances into the fort.
We took the audio tour here, which had a very plummy ladies voice rather than the lovely old world Raj voice of the previous audio tour.
Our first view over the battlements of the fort.
On the fort wall below the stone balls placed and ready to be dropped on the heads of invaders, or simply tourists.
A really beautifully illustrated family tree, demonstrating how the Rajput family believe they are 88 generations removed from Krishna.
The previous Maharaja with his absolutely beautiful features.
The tour lead us through a labyrinth of rooms in the palace and out onto several balconies over looking the street.
Looking down into the street below from the beautiful fort balconies.
The arch of the window below was decorated with carved tiny birds which looked remarkably like the screeching spajjers around us. The tiles are tube-lined and from England. The Maharaja was particularly interested in European style.
A room full of intriguing hand printed monies...
Far, far more interesting were these trad shoes left outside this open doorway...when I peeked in I saw a man crouched over some newspaper crumbling up some green.
A papier-mache horse on wheels that was used by the Maharaja's children, to get them accustomed to life in the saddle. The horse was dragged over the cobbles, presumably with the child clinging to the shiny neck.
One of several exquisite stone carvings that had been preserved behind glass in the Palace. This is one of only a few depictions of Krishna with a pointy beardo. We discussed trimming Wiji's beard into a similar shape...
Many of the palace rooms were tiled with mirrors to reflect the light as well as ornament otherwise very dark rooms.
Over she gooooooooooooes!
The Palace Fort looked like it was constructed on a heap of sliding gravel. It is one of the worlds most endangered monuments due to the pressure of the city's drainage system. Apparently 12 times the original capacity, is somehow forced through the city's aging plumbing system. So far three of the 12th century bastions have collapsed.
Hand pained tiles imported from Holland in the late 19th century.
Looking across the plain roof top through the coloured windows...
Carved hardwood screens, made to look like the stone Jalis, were given to a Maharaja as a birthday present...
Intricate, fine honeycomb-like detail.
Looking across from the fort walls to the interconnected complex of seven yellow sandstone Jain Temples, dating from the 12th to the 16th century.
From the rooftops, looking towards the border with Pakistan and the wind turbines used by the Indian military to power its vast forces in the desert.
On the roof I was staring out over Jaisalmer and at the saffron colour of the Rajput flag, when one of the attendants kindly unfurled it for me. Thanks.
The flowing detail below the windows.
Every drop of water was meticulously conserved by a series of funnels and gulleys into tanks below the palace. On average only 15cm of rain falls a year in Rajhastan.
Wiji checks out the stone model of the palace fort...
Its not a patch on a Mexican model, but hey as its carved out of one lump of sandstone it gets a merit.
A lovely tiny window shutter with metal latch and hinges. I want to later make some things at a forge.
A maze of aspects. For most of our visit we were alone, which was lovely.
Salt dough?
A final interior view before we left, with the dripping stone masonry details.
Just outside.
From the street, looking back up at the open balconies that we had walked around and the windows that we had looked out of....
We took a wander through the lanes...and suddenly we were in Crete!
Apart from the serene corner above there was still plenty of evidence of the holi-festival.
On our way to check out the jeweller Hari Om, we came cross this particularly delightful pit of rubbish and swill leading down into the depths below the fort. No wonder it's collapsing.
The jewellery wasn't up to much, but the combo of the view and caption was worth the scorching smelly detour. We wanted to add our own punctuation.
Oh Piggggggggggggey! Its not like Samoa where everyone wants to eat you! In India you are free to wander with your blonde mo-ho.
The rooftop Natraj Restaurant next to the Salim Singh-Ki-Haveli. We had an egg masala here and experienced some very out of control OCD service, fun times at the expense of others.
Laughing, not crying and hoping that those granny-gremlin boiled eggs weren't going to make us ill? An acidic Indian Kings Soda and lime should do the trick, no?
Ooooh, we had seen the current Maharaja of Udaipur on the Discovery channel, doing amongst other things, crashing radio control planes and showing off his Polo skills on a particular breed of horse with unique ears that meet in the middle (I gave myself hiccups remembering this!). We spotted this horse in a dusty compound that was part of the Mandir Palace Hotel. A security man told me off from a distance for taking the photo, 'chill your beans man!'.
'I love your ears, and I know you liked me telling you that'.
Part of the Mandir Palace Hotel, taken from outside the gates, 'oh boo you Mr sat down security man!' Outside the fort walls we admired the rich array of colourful turbans worn by men of different castes and social standing. Some were shocking pink and looked truly amazing in contrast to the dusty surroundings of the desert and their beautiful weather beaten faces.
Back on the streets... 'Don't forget the Jam, but fuck the display cabinet!'
Some unique advertisements, that thankfully had not caught on.
After lunch we visited Patwa-Ki-Haveli, and wandered around its rooms...
The four Jain brothers who had competed with each other on the construction of the Haveli to make it the most beautiful building in Jaisalmer..
The open interior of the haveli. Looking down to the ground floor textile emporium we could see the full-on hard sell with an imprisoned tour group...aaaarrrggh!
A mock up of a trad 19th century Raj era bedroom, complete with grammaphone.
At last, after the Ahmedabad disappointment, some cooking utensils!
Looking down on the streets across Jaisalmer from the roof, we spotted a nice roof cafe for later..
Looking up...and running out we managed to escape the fierce salesmen with their stern faces. 'No and no thank you, once again'.
The view from the street...
The intricate carved wooded shutters had been preserved.
Further along the lanes, the architecture wasn't quite so original, although cast concrete detail had been used to some effect...
A dead scooter.
'Raaaaaaaah! I am the god of mechanics and YES Clair! the front cross member on your SECOND, secondhand Nissan Micra has rusted through again!!! Dooom!'
Ooooh dear, a poor dooogie has found a stone trough for a basket. Tragic.
On the rooftop cafe that we spotted from the Haveli...
The Patwa-Ki-Haveli behind me that we had just visited.
Later back at Saffron cafe...
We checked out the family portraits and antiques...
Loving the trad portraits.
A stone model of what the haveli would have looked like had it been completed.
The view from the roof to the interior below, some of the men were filling the bronze fountain with marigold petals.
We settled down for an evening meal and sunset view of the fort...
It looked beautiful...
and we enjoyed a lovely last meal in Jaisalmer.
No comments:
Post a Comment