Sunday 28 December 2008

Sibu

Oh hi! After our major Christmas chillax fest, we were ready to finally leave Kuching for our next port of call, Sibu. This involved getting up super early to catch the ferry. After buying tickets I brought us a couple of boiled eggs, from the hawker stalls for breakfast, to go with our lovely pandanus rice parcels that we purchased from the vegie restaurant the previous day...We were set!

Yes its far more novel than tupperware!


The windows on the boat seemed very high up. When we looked out of the windows we were just above water level...quite strange. Our bags were somewhere on the roof, and we had high hopes of being reunited with them later.


Mmmm, the rice parcels had a mushroomy-meaty style tofu in the middle.


The journey took about four and a half hours. We travelled up the river and out of Kuching, then into the South China sea, following the coastline. There was a bit of a swell, but barely enough to wake us. With the aid of headphones and ear plugs, we both drifted in and out of sleep for most of the journey, despite the obligatory full volume violent movies. This was an easy trip.

The hectic port of Sibu, with our boat in the distance. Sibu is the gateway to the Batang Rejang linking the coast and the river. This was our transit stop over.


Opposite our hotel, the Li Hua, on the Rajang riverside, we came across this amusing Disney style concrete swan. Apparently it is an ancient Chinese symbol of good fortune and health. The story goes that Long ago a swan was said to have been fed by the towns folk of Sibu, even when they themselves were starving. In return the bird showed them how to extract the edible starch from the sago palm to end the famine. We still have not had an opportunity to try sago yet.


We nipped into the Victorious Cafe, a Chinese Kedai Kopi, across the road to have some lunch. We were a bit late but a lady offered to cook us some noodles with an egg. Thanks.


We explored Sibu in the burning afternoon sunshine...


Along the way we found a concrete garden with another huge swan monument as a centre piece to a carnival of concrete beasts. We read that in the late 19th and early 20th century Chinese immigrants moved to Sibu from the Foochow (Fujian) province in China. The Batang Rejang river reminded the immigrants of the swan river in Fuzhou, China and so the swan became an emblem for the town.


There were Chinese shops galore.


Some lovely shitake mushrooms, tempting us... We gave the massive market a quick tour but couldn't quite cope with the rancid smell of rotting meat in the tropical heat and humidity.


We visited the tallest building in Sarawak, the Wisma Sanyan, but only to take advantage of the air-con in the massive mall.


Suitably cooled, we hot footed it over (far too Lonely Planet) to the Chinese Tua Pek Kong Temple. We were instantly greeted by an old man who cheerfully insisted that we sign the visitors book and take a key so that we could go all the way to the top of the seven storey pagoda! OK.




On the second floor the Buddha was beautifully lit buy pink waterlily candles. People were praying with huge bamboo canes full of smouldering jossticks held to their foreheads.


On the 3rd floor I caught sight of this huge butterfly flying about in the roof. It would have just fitted into both my palms.


Further on was a display of some old photos. We continued to the top...


Looking out over the muddy Batang Rejang, as it makes its way seaward.


Looking out on the other side of the temple, over Sibu, with the temple shadow and layered clouds.






Looking down at the main entrance to the temple.


The entrance gate.


Looking across to the Wisma Sanyan tower.




Arrrrggggh! Top spot. A giant cicada that was - no kidding, big as a swift! I was stood under it for ages, before looking up...Soooo glad that it didn't randomly fall on me! Lol. We took it in turns to be brave/stupid, by grabbing the netting to steady it in the breeze, while the other person took a pic. 'No, YOU first!'


It was enormous, and no doubt could see us with its massive goggley eyes. A true Borneo Jungle beast.






Mmm, looking up a bit more frequently now, lol, we spotted some great details.


Back on the second floor, a mighty bronze vessel.


Looking back up from the ground...






Later in the evening, from our 6th floor corner hotel room, we got an incredible treat. Looking out of the windows we could see and hear the many thousands of swifts swirling in black clouds around the hotel and tower block opposite. They later flew off over the Rejang.


Just a few black blurry shapes of the jet propelled swifts in the sunset over the Rejang.




We went out for a walk along the river esplanade and saw lots of men fishing along the banks. We could still hear the shrill twittering of the swifts. This was accompanied by the high pitched noise of low swooping bats! We decided to have dinner at The Ark, on the waterfront. It was there that we got treated to a large cicada repeatedly hurling itself at the ceiling lights above us. Its wings clattered, with the strength of acetate, along the walls. It was a total beast. We had to move away from it, Lol. I just couldn't get Wiji to agree on an emergency procedure should it land in my hair. I love insects, but I didn't fancy being randomly dive bombed by one that could cover my entire face!

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