Antigua was founded in 1543 and was the colonial capital for 233 years. In 1776 the capital was transfered to Guatemala city, after Antigua was razed to the ground by the earthquake of 1773. Most of Antigua's buildings were constructed in the 17th and 18th century when the city was a Spanish outpost and the catholic church was ascending to power. After the 1733 earthquake, the city was slowly rebuilt, retaining its colonial architectural heritage.
Antigua had a romantic atmosphere, lots of trees blossoming, cobbled streets and plenty of chilled park life. We met some really cool people here and kind of moved in for a bit, it was all very easy and reminded us of Oaxaca, Mexico.
Early morning parque central looking towards Catedral de Santiago from the upstairs of the city hall. I always see it as a challenge to get into the city hall, this was a view from the first floor terrace.
The fountain in parque central, built in 1738.
Catedral de Santiago, founded in 1542, damaged by earthquakes and rebuilt several times through the 17th and 18th centuries. When we went inside we were very surprised to discover that the interior was very lacklustre, apparently this had never recovered its original splendor.
Palacio de los Capitanes. Home, apparently, to the tourist office amongst other things. When we asked some young armed guards about this, they had no idea what we were on about...amusing all round though! Nice semi-automatics.
Inglesia y Convento de Nuestra Senora de la Merced. The building of this church begun in 1548, two earthquakes later it was rebuilt again and again and finally completed in 1855, and recognised as Antigua's most striking colonial church. We arrived to have a quick nip round inside, before the busy sunday morning service begun.
We returned here to have lunch from the street vendors outside. Unfortunately we managed to get served by 'dad', who was unable to multitask in anyway and had to be assisted by daughter and wife with every action, they really were humouring him, but it was quite painful to watch!
We managed to order a massive amount of plantain, some in chocolatey mole and pan con quesa, quite a feast.
Universidad de san Carlos, (behind the ruins of the cathederal), has now relocated to Guatemala city and this is a museum.
The rear of Catedral de Santiago that was distroyed by several earthquakes, made an interesting visit. The front was rebuilt, but this was left and is very slowly being restored, we wandered around, marvelling at the chaos and destruction, more from recent times than old. It didn't seem very well looked after, sadly. A beautiful shot Wiji, that perfectly omits the very loud tour guide (not ours) and the smell of dry rot.
Hard to believe that it's actually safe to visit!
A record of perseverence!
We were even allowed to venture into the underground cellars. It was very dank and humid and muddy under foot. The arches low overhead had the arched brick construction visible. We took some flash photos to light up the space, basically to see what was there, some of the cavernous spaces were filled with litter, oh dear. We could also see and hear the footsteps of the people on the main steps, although they seemed so far away throught the thick walls.
Antigua is full of ruins from various earthquakes...here's another.
And another, neither of which we could find any info on...
Antigua will remain in our minds as the place that Wiji final resolved his long quest (across three countries), for an 'adaptor that fits everything'. Only to find that the one we had all along does work with the portable speakers! What really? So no more hanging around gadget shops...I don't believe it!
Lots of the original colonial buildings had these domed roof extensions, I would have loved to have seen one from inside. This is the street that our hostel is on.
The view from our hostel room, on the roof terrace. In the distance is Inglesia y Convento de Nuestra Senora de la Merced, and some more of those domes.
Another day, another ruined building. Our visit was accompanied by the soundtrack of 'billie gene' and 'ladies night' and some totally chod 80's numbers that were belting out from a party across the road, on a massive P.A system. Quite mad.
Inglesia y Convento de la Recoleccion was built between 1701 and 1708 and destroyed in the 1733 earthquake, open to visitors though!
We marvelled at the 'earthquake landscape'...
I'm not sure its up to 'National Trust' visiting safety standards!
Little did we know that later that night we would experience our second eathquake of our trip, back at our hostel, where Wiji would decide not to react, because he was naked, LMHO.x
Oh yes Michael, my legs are brown! Browner than yours!
LOL. Wiji under a massive chunk of the roof.
Wiji claimed that this was the remnants of the oldest fountain in South America, and made me run back and take a picture (shoddy) of it as the guard was trying to turf us out. Who then thought that I was running away from him. Only later did he have to admit, this wasn't true. Mmmm.
The clock archway that we walked past on our journeys to and from the centre.
On our first day in Antigua after exploring we decided to head off for the evening to Cafe No Se, listed as having uncomfortable seats, five dogs, confused staff and warning of tequilla pregnancies, it sounded suitably offbeat. It was set in a small lean-to outdoor terrace and didn't disappoint. lots of amusing Art on the walls and various signage, one of which stated 'Hippies use the back entrance, no exceptions'.
We had a great time here and over the course of the evening had to make it home from home due to a massive thunderstorm and treacherous down pour. The rain flooded off the lean-to roof and filled the courtyard lower level. Before too long we were joined by Phillipe, a 12 year old boy, who was out and about shoe-shining, and had got caught in the down pour. He asked us to buy him a meal, and joined us for dinner. In return he asked to borrow a pen and made us a few sketches on a napkin. The rain didn't seem to be stopping but Phillipe decided to leave anyway, after happily chatting to us and shaking our hands, we waved him off, feeling quite concerned as he lived miles away.
We decided to stay, we were miles away too, and by this time the drinks had become half price. Ideal. We ordered a few tequillas, it all got a bit squiffy from then on, but we made it home safely.
At our hostel, on our final day in Antigua, the cloud completely cleared from Volcan Agua, leaving us with a clear view of the summit.
What a an amazing view!
Antigua was one of those places that made you forget all your plans for a time and really relax. We loved it.
1 comment:
Lovely pictures, and a real good feel for the place. So different from the other ones, but then they have been unlucky with those pesky earthquakes.
C&B x
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